How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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Half Way Between
The Mouth Of The Malagarazi And That Of The Liuche We Saw A Camp
On Shore - That
Of Mohammed bin Gharib, a Msawahili, who figured
often in Livingstone's verbal narrative to me of his adventures
and travels
As one of the kindest and best of the Moslems in
Central Africa. He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with
a face seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual characteristic
on it - that of sincerity.
The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical,
each curve revealed new beauties. With the soft chalky stone, of
which most of the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared
the mouth of the Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.
We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed
eighteen miles from Ukaranga. The shore party arrived, very much
fatigued, about 5 P.M.
The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad
mouth of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the
river. This is a river which a civilised community would find of
immense advantage for shortening the distance between the Tanganika
and the coast. Nearly one hundred miles might be performed by
this river, which is deep enough at all seasons to allow navigation
as far as Kiala, in Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily
made to Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might reap the same benefit
from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and Ugala. Pursuing
our way on the 30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of
Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we came, after about three hours'
rowing, in sight of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid
Rugufu. Here we had again to transport the caravan ever the
crocodile-infested mouth of the river.
On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with men to search for
food in the two or three villages that were visible on the other
side. Four doti purchased just sufficient for four days for our
caravan of forty-eight persons. We then got under weigh, having
informed the kirangozi that Urimba was our destination, and bidding
him keep as closely as possible to the lake shore, where it was
practicable, but if not, to make the best he could of it. From the
debouchement of the Rugufu, the headwaters of which we had crossed
on our random route to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six days by
water, there are no villages, and consequently no food. The shore
party, however, before leaving Ujiji, had eight days' rations,
and on this morning four days', distributed to each person,
and therefore was in no danger of starvation should the mountain
headlands, now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one after another,
prevent them from communicating with us. It must be understood
that such a journey as this had never been attempted before by
any Arab or Msawahili, and every step taken was in sheer
ignorance of where the road would lead the men ashore. Rounding
Kivoe's steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope,
wooded down to the water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet
recesses, might well have evoked a poetical effusion to one so
inclined, we dared the chopping waves of Kivoe's bay, and stood
direct for the next cape, Mizohazy, behind which, owing to wind
and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night.
After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo - not the terrible Kabogo
around whose name mystery has been woven by the superstitious
natives - not the Kabogo whose sullen thunder and awful roar were
heard when crossing the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha - -but
a point in Ukaranga, on whose hard and uninviting rocks many a
canoe has been wrecked. We passed close to its forbidding walls,
thankful for the calm of the Tanganika. Near Kabogo are some very
fine mvule trees, well adapted for canoe building, and there are no
loud-mouthed natives about to haggle for the privilege of cutting
them.
Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it, was observed
very clearly on the smooth face of the rocky slopes of Kabogo
the high-water mark of the lake. This went to show that the
Tanganika, during the rainy season, rises about three feet above
its dry season level, and that, during the latter season,
evaporation reduces it to its normal level. The number of rivers
which we passed on this journey enabled me to observe whether, as
I was told, there was any current setting north. It was apparent
to me that, while the south-west, south, or south-east winds blew,
the brown flood of the rivers swept north; but it happened that,
while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after a puff
from the north-west and north, that the muddied waters were seen
southward of the mouths; from which I conclude that there is no
current in the Tanganika except such as is caused by the fickle
wind.
Finding a snug nook of a bay at a place called Sigunga, we put in
for lunch. An island at the mouth of the bay suggested to our
minds that this was a beautiful spot for a mission station; the
grandly sloping hills in the background, with an undulating shelf
of land well-wooded between them and the bay, added to the
attractions of such a spot. The island, capable of containing
quite a large village, and perfectly defensible, might, for
prudence' sake, contain the mission and its congregation; the
landlocked bay would protect their fishery and trade vessels;
more than sustain a hundred times the number of the population
of the island. Wood for building their canoes and houses is
close at hand; the neighbouring country would afford game in
abundance; and the docile and civil people of Ukaranga but
wait religious shepherds.
From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off, and,
after three hours, arrived at the mouth of the River Uwelasia.
Hippopotami and crocodiles being numerous; we amused ourselves by
shooting at them, having also a hope of attracting the attention
of our shore party, the sound of whose guns we had not heard
since leaving the Rugufu.
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