We had arranged to meet them
at the mouth of every river to transport them across from bank to bank.
The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which was a third or so
shorter than the one under my command, took the lead, with the
British flag, held aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a
crimson meteor. My boat-manned by Wajiji sailors, whom we had
engaged to take the canoes back from Tongwe Cape to Ujiji Bunder -
came astern, and had a much taller flagstaff, on which was hoisted
the ever-beautiful Stars and Stripes. Its extreme height drew from
the Doctor - whose patriotism and loyalty had been excited - the remark
that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for his flagstaff, as it
was not fitting that the British flag should be so much lower than
that of the United States.
Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in lightheartedness at the
thought of going to Unyanyembe. They struck up the exhilarating
song of the Zanzibar boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus -
Kinan de re re Kitunga,
rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled to rest from
sheer exhaustion, while the perspiration exuded from the pores of
their bodies in streams. When refreshed, they bent back to their
oars, raising the song of the Mrima -
O mama, re de mi Ky,
which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again, It was
by this series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing,
perspiring, laughing, groaning, and puffing, that our people vented
their joyous feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we
were homeward bound, and that by the route I had adopted between
us and Unyanyembe there was not the least danger.
We have given the Waha, the slip! ha, ha!
The Wavinza will trouble us no more! ho! ho!
Mionvu can get no more cloth from us! hy,by!
And Kiala will see us no more - -never more! he, he!
they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous
and rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old
canoes to quiver from stem to stern.
Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined
in the wild refrain of the mad African song. We watched them
urging their steps forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded
the capes and points, and rowed across the bays whose margins were
sedge, and rush, and reed; the tiny and agile Kalulu, little
Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the herds of goats, sheep,
and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and the animals even
seemed to share the general joy.
Nature, also - proud, wild nature-0-with the lofty azure dome
upheaved into infinity - with her breadth and depth of vivid
greenness and enormous vastness on our left - with her immense
sheet of bright, glancing water - with her awful and intense
serenity - she partook of and added to our joy.
About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief, noted for his
singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone, while he bore animosity to
the Arabs. To the Arabs this was unaccountable - to the Doctor it
was plain: he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the
Arabs spoke to him as if he were not even a man, least of all a
chief.
Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which is very wide;
the river oozes out through a forest of eschinomenae (pith tree).
This was a rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties,
that the canoes might all cross to the other side, distant a mile
and a half. The mouth of the Liuche forms the Bay of Ukaranga,
so named because on the other side, whither we were about to cross
our party, was situated the village of Ukaranga, a few hundred yards
from the lake. All the baggage was taken out of the largest canoe,
and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few select oarsmen
having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor on board, who was
to superintend pitching the encampment at Ukaranga; while I remained
behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow
them away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger of
upsetting might be incurred, and a consequent gobbling-up by
hungry crocodiles, which were all about us waiting their opportunity.
The flock of goats were then embarked, and as many of our people
as could be got in. About thirty still remained behind with myself,
for whom my canoe was to return.
We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near
a herd of hippopotami. The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche
being then in flood) was effected in about four hours.
The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji,
we pursued our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as
possible to the shore, yet, when feasible, wind and weather
permitting, we struck off boldly across the numerous small bays
which indent the shores of the Tanganika. The shores were
beautifully green, the effect of the late rains; the waters of
the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above.
The hippopotami were plentiful. Those noticed on this day were
coloured with reddish rings round the base of their ears and on the
neck. One monster, coming up rather late, was surprised by the
canoe making full for him, and in great fright took a tremendous
dive which showed the whole length of his body.
