How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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For It Was Not The Geographical News He
Cared So Much About, As The Grand Fact Of Livingstone's Being
Alive Or Dead.
In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his
children, to Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville.
He had intended to have written to the Earl of Clarendon, but
it was my sad task to inform him of the death of that
distinguished nobleman.
In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for its return
march to Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales and luggage, the
Doctor's large tin boxes, and my own among my own men; for I
had resolved upon permitting the Doctor's men to march as
passengers, because they had so nobly performed their duty
to their master.
Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's country,
to give the black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son
Soud in the forests of Wilyankuru; and he had taken with him 300
stout fellows, armed with guns, from Ujiji. The stout-hearted
old chief was burning with rage and resentment, and a fine warlike
figure he made with his 7-foot gun. Before we had departed for
the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage, and expressed a hope
that he would rid the Central African world of the tyrant Mirambo.
On the 20th of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy
rain, thunder, lightning, and hail; the thermometer falling to
66 degrees Fahrenheit. The evening of this day I was attacked with
urticaria, or "nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in
Africa, and I suffered a woeful sickness; and it was the forerunner
of an attack of remittent fever, which lasted four days. This is
the malignant type, which has proved fatal to so many African
travellers on the Zambezi, the White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger.
The head throbs, the pulses bound, the heart struggles painfully,
while the sufferer's thoughts are in a strange world, such only as
a sick man's fancy can create. This was the fourth attack of
fever since the day I met Livingstone. The excitement of the
march, and the high hope which my mind constantly nourished,
had kept my body almost invincible against an attack of fever
while advancing towards Ujiji; but two weeks after the great event
had transpired my energies were relaxed, my mind was perfectly
tranquil, and I became a victim.
Christmas came, and the Doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed
and time-honoured day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon
lands, with a feast such as Ujiji could furnish us. The fever had
quite gone from me the night before, and on Christmas morning,
though exceedingly weak, I was up and dressed, and lecturing
Ferajji, the cook, upon the importance of this day to white men,
and endeavouring to instil into the mind of the sleek and pampered
animal some cunning secrets of the culinary art. Fat broad-tailed
sheep, goats, zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, singwe,
fine cornflour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c., &c., were
procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old Moeni Kheri.
But, alas! for my weakness. Ferajji spoiled the roast, and our
custard was burned - the dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained
rascal escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift
my hands for punishment; but my looks were dreadful and alarming,
and capable of annihilating any one except Ferajji. The stupid,
hard-headed cook only chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent
gratification of eating the pies, custards, and roast that his
carelessness had spoiled for European palates.
Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left orders that
we should be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip,
and Moeni Kheri kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose.
The Expedition, now augmented by the Doctor and his five servants,
and their luggage, necessitated the employment of another canoe.
We had our flocks of milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for
the jungle of Ukawendi, the transit of which I was about to attempt.
Good Halimah, Livingstone's cook, had made ready a sackful of fine
flour, such as she only could prepare in her fond devotion for her
master. Hamoydah, her husband, also had freely given his
assistance and attention to this important article of food.
I purchased a donkey for the Doctor, the only one available in
Ujiji, lest the Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march
from his ancient enemy. In short, we were luxuriously furnished
with food, sheep, goats, cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes,
sufficient to convey us a long distance; we needed nothing more.
The 27th of December has arrived; it is the day of our departure
from Ujiji. I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to
the port whose name will for ever be sacred in my memory. The
canoes - great lumbering hollow trees - are laden with good things;
the rowers are in their places; the flag of England is hoisted at
the stern of the Doctor's canoe; the flag of America waves and
rustles joyously above mine; and I cannot look at them without
feeling a certain pride that the two Anglo-Saxon nations are
represented this day on this great inland sea, in the face of
wild nature and barbarism.
We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the
admiring children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by
wondering Waguhha and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this
day quiet, even sorrowful, that the white men are going-"Whither?"
they all ask.
At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the
Arabs and quidnuncs wave their hands. On the part of one or two
of them there was an attempt to say something sentimental and
affecting, especially by the convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali;
but though outwardly I manifested no disapprobation of his words,
or of the emphatic way in which he shook my hand, I was not sorry
to see the last of him, after his treachery to Livingstone in
1869.
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