How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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It Is An Extremely Flat
Country, The Highest Part Of Which Is Not Ten Feet Above The Lake,
With Numerous Depressions In It Overgrown With The Rankest Of
Matete-Grass And The Tallest Of Papyrus, And Pond-Like Hollows,
Filled With Stagnant Water, Which Emit Malaria Wholesale.
Large
herds of cattle are reared on it; for where the ground is not
covered with marshy plants it produces rich, sweet grass.
The sheep
and goats, especially the former, are always in good condition; and
though they are not to be compared with English or American sheep,
they are the finest I have seen in Africa. Numerous villages are
seen on this land because the intervening spaces are not occupied
with the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts of Africa.
Were it not for the Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia - which some
chief has caused to be planted as a defence round the villages -
one might see from one end of Mugihewa to the other. The waters
along the head of the lake, from the western to the eastern shores,
swarm with crocodiles. From the banks, I counted ten heads of
crocodiles, and the Rusizi, we were told, was full of them.
Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters
in his village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see
something that excited his risibility; though older by five or
six years perhaps - he said he was a hundred years old - than Mukamba,
he was not half so dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration
by his people as his younger brother. Ruhinga had a better
knowledge, however, of the country than Mukamba, and an admirable
memory, and was able to impart his knowledge of the country
intelligently. After he had done the honours as chief to us -
presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk and honey - we were not
backward in endeavouring to elicit as much information as possible
out of him.
The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated
as follows:
The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper,
on the eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the
following districts:
1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into the lake
the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda.
2nd. Mukanigi, governed by Warumashanya, which occupied the whole
of the north-eastern head of the lake, through which issued into
the lake the small rivers of Karindwa and Mugera wa Kanigi.
3rd. On the eastern half of the district, at the head of the lake,
was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and friend of Warumashanya,
extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi.
4th. Commencing from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme
north-western head of the lake, was Mugihewa - Ruhinga's country.
5th. From Uvira on the west, running north past Mugihewa, and
overlapping it on the north side as far as the hills of Chamati,
was Ruwenga, also a country governed by Mukamba. Beyond Ruwenga,
from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda River, was the country of
Chamati. West of Ruwenga, comprising all the mountains for two
days' journey in that direction, was Uashi. These are the
smaller sub-divisions of what is commonly known as Ruwenga and
Usige. Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ruwenga and Mugihewa;
Usige, the countries of Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere. But all
these countries are only part and parcel of Urundi, which
comprises all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River,
on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending over
ten days' journey direct north from the head of the lake, and
one month in a northeastern direction to Murukuko, the capital
of Mwezi, Sultan of all Urundi. Direct north of Urundi is Ruanda;
also a very large country.
The Rusizi River - according to Ruhinga - rose near a lake called
Kivo, which he said is as long as from Mugihawa to Mugere, and
as broad as from Mugihewa to Warumashanya's country, or, say
eighteen miles in length by about eight in breadth. The lake is
surrounded by mountains on the western and northern sides: on the
south-western side of one of these mountains issues the Rusizi - at
first a small rapid stream; but as it proceeds towards the lake it
receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan, Mohira, Nyamagana,
Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha, Mukindu,
Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which seems
to be the largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the
country in which it is situated. On one side is Mutumbi (probably
the Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east
is Urundi. The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura.
After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only
remained for us to see it. On the second morning of our arrival
at Mugihewa we mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore
the head of the lake and the mouth of the Rusizi. We found that
the northern head of the lake was indented with seven broad bays,
each from one and a half to three miles broad; that long broad
spits of sand, overgrown with matete, separated each bay from the
other. The first, starting from west to east, at the broadest part,
to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about three miles
broad, and served as a line of demarcation between Mukamba's district
of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga; it was also two miles deep.
The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of Mugihewa
to Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile
across to another spit of sand which was terminated by a small
island. The third bay stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit,
at the end of which was another island, one and a quarter mile
in length, and was the western side of the fourth bay, at the
head of which was the delta of the Rusizi.
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