How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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"Neatly Done," Cried The Doctor, As We
Were Shooting Through The Water, Leaving The Discomfited
Would-Be Robbers Behind Us.
Here, again, my hand was stayed from
planting a couple of good shots, as a warning to them in future
from molesting strangers, by the more presence of the Doctor,
who, as I thought, if it were actually necessary, would not
hesitate to give the word.
After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape
Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where
we were permitted to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our
journey, and about 8 A.M. arrived at the village of the friendly
Mutware of Magala. We had pulled for eighteen hours at a stretch,
which, at the rate of two miles and a half per hour, would make
forty-five miles. Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala,
one of the most prominent points in travelling north from Ujiji, we
found that the large island of Muzimu, which had been in sight ever
since rounding Cape Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about
south-south-west, and that the western shore had considerably
approached to the eastern; the breadth of the lake being at this
point about eight or ten miles. We had a good view of the western
highlands, which seemed to be of an average height, about 3,000
feet above the lake. Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of
west from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher; and Sumburizi, a
little north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the
country opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher
than the neighbouring heights. Northward from Magala Cape the lake
streamed away between two chains of mountains; both meeting in a
point about thirty miles north of us.
The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers. They
flocked around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us,
as if we were subjects of most intense interest, but liable to
sudden and eternal departure. The Mutware came to see us late in
the afternoon, dressed with great pomp. He turned out to be a boy
whom I had noticed in the crowd of gazers for his good looks and
fine teeth, which he showed, being addicted to laughing
continually. There was no mistaking him, though he was now
decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces, and with
heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets. Our admiration of
him was reciprocated; and, in return for our two doti of cloth and
a fundo of samsam, he gave a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep,
and a pot of milk. In our condition both were extremely acceptable.
At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose
country we were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining
district; and we were advised that, unless we intended to assist
one of these chiefs against the other, it would be better for us to
return. But, as we had started to solve the problem of the Rusizi
River, such considerations had no weight with us.
On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the
hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country,
which was in view. Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi
proper, and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west
arose; and the fearful yawing of our canoe into the wave trough
warned us from proceeding further; so we turned her head for Kisuka
village, about four miles north, where Mugere, in Usige, begins.
At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to see us, and gave us
details of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it
seemed that these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It
is a tame way of fighting, after all. One chief makes a raid into
the other's country, and succeeds in making off with a herd of
cattle, killing one or two men who have been surprised. Weeks, or
perhaps months elapse before the other retaliates, and effects a
capture in a similar way, and then a balance is struck in which
neither is the gainer. Seldom do they attack each other with
courage and hearty goodwill, the constitution of the African
being decidedly against any such energetic warfare.
This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information
far more interesting, viz., about the Rusizi. He told us
positively, with the air of a man who knew all about it, and as
if anybody who doubted him might well be set down as an egregious
ass, that the Rusizi River flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's
(Mtesa's) country. "Where else could it flow to?" he asked. The
Doctor was inclined to believe it, or, perhaps he was more inclined
to let it rest as stated until our own eyes should confirm it. I
was more inclined to doubt, as I told the Doctor; first, it was
too good to be true; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon
a subject that could not possibly interest him. His "Barikallahs"
and "Inshallahs" were far too fervid; his answers too much in
accordance with our wishes. The Doctor laid great stress on the
report of a Mgwana he met far south, who stated that the grandfather
or father of Rumanika, present King of Karagwah, had thought of
excavating the bed of the Kitangule River, in order that his canoes
might go to Ujiji to open a trade. From this, I imagine, coinciding
as it did with his often-expressed and present firm belief that the
waters of the Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the Doctor was
partial to the report of the Mgwana; but as we proceed we shall see
how all this will end.
On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we
passed the broad delta of the Mugere, a river which gives its name
also to the district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba.
We had come directly opposite the most southern of its three
mouths, when we found quite a difference in the colour of the water.
An almost straight line, drawn east and west from the mouth would
serve well to mark off the difference that existed between the waters.
On the south side was pure water of a light green, on the north side
it was muddy, and the current could be distinctly seen flowing north.
Soon after passing the first mouth we came to a second, and then a
third mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each discharging
sufficient water to permit our following the line of the currents
several rods north beyond the respective mouths.
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