How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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From The Date Of His Arrival Until The End Of June, 1869, He
Remained At Ujiji, Whence He Dated Those
Letters which, though the
outside world still doubted his being alive, satisfied the minds of
the Royal Geographical people, and
His intimate friends, that he
still existed, and that Musa'a tale was the false though ingenious
fabrication of a cowardly deserter. It was during this time that
the thought occurred to him of sailing around the Lake Tanganika,
but the Arabs and natives were so bent upon fleecing him that, had
he undertaken it, the remainder or his goods would not have enabled
him to explore the central line of drainage, the initial point of
which he found far south of Cazembe's in about latitude 11 degrees,
in the river called Chambezi.
In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting in Ujiji,
after his march from the coast near Zanzibar, the land to which
Livingstone, on his departure from Ujiji, bent his steps was
unknown to the Arabs save by vague report. Messrs. Burton and
Speke never heard of it, it seems. Speke, who was the geographer
of Burton's Expedition, heard of a place called Urua, which he
placed on his map, according to the general direction indicated by
the Arabs; but the most enterprising of the Arabs, in their search
after ivory, only touched the frontiers of Rua, as, the natives
and Livingstone call it; for Rua is an immense country, with a
length of six degrees of latitude, and as yet an undefined breadth
from east to west.
At the end of June, 1869, Livingstone quitted Ujiji and crossed
over to Uguhha, on the western shore, for his last and greatest
series of explorations; the result of which was the further
discovery of a lake of considerable magnitude connected with Moero
by the large river called the Lualaba, and which was a
continuation of the chain of lakes he had previously discovered.
From the port of Uguhha he set off, in company with a body of
traders, in an almost direct westerly course, for the country of
Urua. Fifteen days' march brought them to Bambarre, the first
important ivory depot in Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it,
Manyuema. For nearly six months he was detained at Bambarre from
ulcers in the feet, which discharged bloody ichor as soon as he
set them on the ground. When recovered, he set off in a northerly
direction, and after several days came to a broad lacustrine river,
called the Lualaba, flowing northward and westward, and in some
places southward, in a most confusing way. The river was from one
to three miles broad. By exceeding pertinacity he contrived to
follow its erratic course, until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow,
long lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude 6 degrees 30 minutes.
Retracing this to the south, he came to the point where he had
seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero.
One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Livingstone's
description of the beauties of Moero scenery. Pent in on all sides
by high mountains, clothed to the edges with the rich vegetation
of the tropics, the Moero discharges its superfluous waters through
a deep rent in the bosom of the mountains. The impetuous and grand
river roars through the chasm with the thunder of a cataract, but
soon after leaving its confined and deep bed it expands into the
calm and broad Lualaba, stretching over miles of ground. After
making great bends west and south-west, and then curving northward,
it enters Kamolondo. By the natives it is called the Lualaba, but
the Doctor, in order to distinguish it from other rivers of the same
name, has given it the name of "Webb's River," after Mr. Webb,
the wealthy proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor
distinguishes as one of his oldest and most consistent friends.
Away to the south-west from Kamolondo is another large lake, which
discharges its waters by the important River Loeki, or Lomami,
into the great Lualaba. To this lake, known as Chebungo by the
natives, Dr. Livingstone has given the name of "Lincoln," to be
hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake Lincoln,
in memory of Abraham Lincoln, our murdered President. This was
done from the vivid impression produced on his mind by hearing
a portion of his inauguration speech read from an English pulpit,
which related to the causes that induced him to issue his
Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable deed 4,000,000 of
slaves were for ever freed. To the memory of the man whose
labours on behalf of the negro race deserves the commendation of
all good men, Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable
than brass or stone.
Entering Webb's River from the south-south-west, a little north
of Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira, but the streams,
that discharge themselves from the watershed into the Lualaba are
so numerous that the Doctor's map would not contain them, so he has
left all out except the most important. Continuing his way north,
tracing the Lualaba through its manifold and crooked curves as far
as latitude 4 degrees south, he came to where he heard of another
lake, to the north, into which it ran. But here you may come to
a dead halt, and read what lies beyond this spot thus . . . .
This was the furthermost point, whence he was compelled to return
on the weary road to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles.
In this brief sketch of Dr. Livingstone's wonderful travels it is
to be hoped the most superficial reader, as well as the student of
geography, comprehends this grand system of lakes connected
together by Webb's River. To assist him, let him glance at the
map accompanying this book. He will then have a fair idea of what
Dr. Livingstone has been doing during these long years, and what
additions he has made to the study of African geography. That
this river, distinguished under several titles, flowing from one
lake into another in a northerly direction, with all its great
crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile - the true Nile - the
Doctor has not the least doubt.
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