From This, The Country Being All Hill And Dale, With Miry Rush-
Drains In The Bottoms, I Walked, Carrying My Shoes And Stockings
In My Hands, Nearly All The Way.
Rozaro's "children" became more
and more troublesome, stealing everything they could lay their
hands upon out of the village huts we passed on the way.
On
arrival at Sangua, I found many of them had been seized by some
men who, bolder than the rest, had overtaken them whilst gutting
their huts, and made them prisoners, demanding of me two slaves
and one load of beads for their restitution. I sent my men back
to see what had happened, and ordered them to bring all the men
on to me, that I might see fair play. They, however, took the
law into their own hands, drove off the Waganda villagers by
firing their muskets, and relieved the thieves. A complaint was
then laid against Nyamgundu by the chief officer of the village,
and I was requested to halt. That I would not do, leaving the
matter in the hands of the governor-general, Mr Pokino, whom I
heard we should find at the next station, Masaka.
On arrival there at the government establishment - a large
collection of grass huts, separated one from the other within
large enclosures, which overspread the whole top of a low hill - I
was requested to withdraw and put up in some huts a short
distance off, and wait until his excellency, who was from home,
could come and see me; which the next day he did, coming in state
with a large number of officers, who brought with them a cow,
sundry pots of pombe, enormous sticks of sugar-cane, and a large
bundle of country coffee. This grows in great profusion all over
this land in large bushy trees, the berries sticking on the
branches like clusters of hollyberries.
I was then introduced, and told that his excellency was the
appointed governor of all the land lying between the Katonga and
the Kitangule rivers. After the first formalities were over, the
complaint about the officers at Sangua was preferred for
decision, on which Pokino at once gave it against the villagers,
as they had no right, by the laws of the land, to lay hands on a
king's guest. Just then Maula arrived, and began to abuse
N'yamgundu. Of course I would not stand this; and, after telling
all the facts of the case, I begged Pokino to send Maula away out
of my camp. Pokino said he could not do this, as it was by the
king's order he was appointed; but he put Maula in the
background, laughing at the way he had "let the bird fly out of
his hands," and settled that N'yamgundu should be my guide. I
then gave him a wire, and he gave me three large sheets of mbugu,
which he said I should require, as there were so many water-
courses to cross on the road I was going. A second day's halt
was necessitated by many of my men catching fever, probably owing
to the constant crossing of those abominable rush-drains. There
was no want of food here, for I never saw such a profusion of
plantains anywhere. They were literally lying in heaps on the
ground, though the people were brewing pombe all day, and cooking
them for dinner every evening.
After crossing many more hills and miry bottoms, constantly
coming in view of the lake, we reached Ugonzi, and after another
march of the same description, came to Kituntu, the last
officer's residence in Uddu. Formerly it was the property of a
Beluch named Eseau, who came to this country with merchandise,
trading on account of Said Said, late Sultan of Zanzibar; but
having lost it all on his way here, paying mahongo, or taxes, and
so forth he feared returning, and instead made great friends with
the late king Sunna, who took an especial fancy to him because he
had a very large beard, and raised him to the rank of Mkungu. A
few years ago, however, Eseau died, and left all his family and
property to a slave named Uledi, who now, in consequence, is the
border officer.
I became now quite puzzled whilst thinking which was the finest
spot I had seen in Uddu, so many were exceedingly beautiful; but
I think I gave the preference to this, both for its own immediate
neighbourhood and the long range of view it afforded of Uganda
proper, the lake, and the large island, or group of islands,
called Sese where the king of Uganda keeps one of his fleets of
boats.
Some little boys came here who had all their hair shaved off
excepting two round tufts on either side of the head. They were
the king's pages; and, producing three sticks, said they had
brought them to me from their king, who wanted three charms or
medicines. Then placing one stick on the ground before me, they
said, "This one is a head which, being affected by dreams of a
deceased relative, requires relief"; the second symbolised the
king's desire for the accomplishment of a phenomenon to which the
old phalic worship was devoted; "and this third one," they said,
"is a sign that the king wants a charm to keep all his subjects
in awe of him." I then promised I would do what I could when I
reached the palace, but feared to do anything in the distance. I
wished to go on with the march, but was dissuaded by N'yamgundu,
who said he had received orders to find me some cows here, as his
king was most anxious I should be well fed. Next day, however,
we descended into the Katonga valley, where, instead of finding a
magnificent broad sheet of water, as I had been led to expect by
the Arabs' account of it, I found I had to wade through a
succession of rush-drains divided one from the other by islands.
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