Here, Taking A
Hasty Meal, We Resumed The March All Together, Descended The
Great Western Chain, And, As Night Set In, Camped In A Ravine At
The Foot Of It, Not Far From The Great Junction-Station Ugogi,
Where Terminate The Hills Of Usagara.
Chapter IV
Ugogo, and the Wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali
The Lie of the Country - Rhinoceros-Stalking - Scuffle of Villagers
over a Carcass - Chief "Short-Legs" and His Successors - Buffalo-
Shooting - Getting Lost - A Troublesome Sultan - Desertions from the
Camp - Getting Plundered - Wilderness March - Diplomatic Relations
with the Local Powers - Manua Sera's Story - Christmas - The Relief
from Kaze
This day's work led us from the hilly Usagara range into the more
level lands of the interior. Making a double march of it, we
first stopped to breakfast at the quiet little settlement of
Inenge, where cattle were abundant, but grain so scarce that the
villagers were living on calabash seeds. Proceeding thence
across fields delightfully checkered with fine calabash and fig
trees, we marched, carrying water through thorny jungles, until
dark, when we bivouacked for the night, only to rest and push on
again next morning, arriving at Marenga Mkhali (the saline water)
to breakfast. Here a good view of the Usagara hills is obtained.
Carrying water with us, we next marched half-way to the first
settlement of Ugogo, and bivouacked again, to eat the last of our
store of Mbumi grain.
At length the greater famine lands had been spanned; but we were
not in lands of plenty - for the Wagogo we found, like their
neighbours Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save
their small stores of grain.
The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be
crossed, for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling
ground, sloping southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great
drain running from west to east, carrying off all the rainwaters
that fall in its neighbourhood through the East Coast Range to
the sea. To the northward can be seen some low hills, which are
occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe of the warlike Masai; and on the
west is the large forest-wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali. Ugogo,
lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills, is comparatively
sterile. Small outcrops of granite here and there poke through
the surface, which, like the rest of the rolling land, being
covered with bush, principally acacias, have a pleasing
appearance after the rains have set in, but are too brown and
desert-looking during the rest of the year. Large prairies of
grass also are exposed in many places, and the villagers have
laid much ground bare for agricultural purposes.
Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with
the natives who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the
Wasagara, carry arms, intended for use rather than show. The
men, indeed, are never seen without their usual arms - the spear,
the shield, and the assage. They live in flat-topped, square,
tembe villages, wherever springs of water are found, keep cattle
in plenty, and farm enough generally to supply not only their own
wants, but those of the thousands who annually pass in caravans.
They are extremely fond of ornaments, the most common of which is
an ugly tube of the gourd thrust through the lower lobe of the
ear.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 45 of 403
Words from 23020 to 23583
of 210958