I Did
Not Walk Straight Up To Him As If To Shake Hands, But Went
Outside The Ranks Of A
Three-sided square of squatting Wakungu,
all inhabited in skins, mostly cow-skins; some few of whom had,
in addition,
Leopard-cat skins girt round the waist, the sign of
royal blood. Here I was desired to halt and sit in the glaring
sun; so I donned my hat, mounted my umbrella, a phenomenon which
set them all a-wondering and laughing, ordered the guard to close
ranks, and sat gazing at the novel spectacle! A more theatrical
sight I never saw. The king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall
young man of twenty-five, was sitting on a red blanket spread
upon a square platform of royal grass, encased in tiger-grass
reeds, scrupulously well dressed in a new mbugu. The hair of his
head was cut short, excepting on the top, where it was combed up
into a high ridge, running from stem to stern like a cockscomb.
On his neck was a very neat ornament - a large ring, of
beautifully-worked small beads, forming elegant patterns by their
various colours. On one arm was another bead ornament, prettily
devised; and on the other a wooden charm, tied by a string
covered with snakeskin. On every finger and every toe, he had
alternate brass and copper rings; and above the ankles, halfway
up to the calf, a stocking of very pretty beads. Everything was
light, neat, and elegant in its way; not a fault could be found
with the taste of his "getting up." For a handkerchief he held a
well-folded piece of bark, and a piece of gold-embroidered silk,
which he constantly employed to hide his large mouth when
laughing, or to wipe it after a drink of plantain-wine, of which
he took constant and copious draughts from neat little gourd-
cups, administered by his ladies-in-waiting, who were at once his
sisters and wives. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman - the
Uganda cognisance - were by his side, as also a knot of staff
officers, with whom he kept up a brisk conversation on one side;
and on the other was a band of Wichezi, or lady-sorcerers, such
as I have already described.
I was now asked to draw nearer within the hollow square of
squatters, where leopard-skins were strewed upon the ground, and
a large copper kettledrum, surmounted with brass bells on arching
wires, along with two other smaller drums covered with cowrie-
shells, and beads of colour worked into patterns, were placed. I
now longed to open conversation, but knew not the language, and
no one near me dared speak, or even lift his head from fear of
being accused of eyeing the women; so the king and myself sat
staring at one another for full an hour - I mute, but he pointing
and remarking with those around him on the novelty of my guard
and general appearance, and even requiring to see my hat lifted,
the umbrella shut and opened, and the guards face about and show
off their red cloaks - for such wonders had never been seen in
Uganda.
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