The Ground We Were On Belonged To King Mtesa, Being A Dependency
Of Uganda, And It Struck Me As Singular
That Wanyoro should be
found here; but I no sooner discovered the truth than I made our
boatmen disgorge everything
They had taken, called back the
Wanyoro to take care of their things, and extracted a promise
from Kasoro that he would not practise such wicked tricks again,
otherwise we could not travel together. Getting to boat again,
after a very little paddling we pulled in to shore, on the Uganda
side, to stop for the night, and thus allowed the injured Wanyoro
to go down the river before us. I was much annoyed by this
interruption, but no argument would prevail on Kasoro to go on.
This was the last village on the Uganda frontier, and before we
could go any farther on boats it would be necessary to ask leave
of Kamrasi's frontier officer, N'yamyonjo, to enter Unyoro. The
Wanguana demanded ammunition in the most imperious manner, whilst
I, in the same tone, refused to issue any lest a row should take
place and they then would desert, alluding to their dastardly
desertion in Msalala, when Grant was attacked. If a fight should
take place, I said they must flock to me at once, and ammunition,
which was always ready, would be served out to them. They
laughed at this, and asked, Who would stop with me when the fight
began? This was making a jest of what I was most afraid of - that
they would all run away.
I held a levee to decide on the best manner of proceeding. The
Waganda wanted us to stop for the day and feel the way gently,
arguing that etiquette demands it. Then, trying to terrify me,
they said, N'yamyonjo had a hundred boats, and would drive us
back to a certainty if we tried to force past them, if he were
not first spoken with, as the Waganda had often tried the passage
and been repulsed. On the other hand, I argued that Grant must
have arrived long ago at Kamrasi's, and removed all these
difficulties for us; but, I said, if they would send men, let
Bombay start at once by land, and we will follow in boats, after
giving him time to say we are coming. This point gained after a
hot debate, Bombay started at 10 a.m., and we not till 5 p.m., it
being but one hour's journey by water. The frontier line was
soon crossed; and then both sides of the river, Usoga as well as
Unyoro, belong to Kamrasi.
I flattered myself all my walking this journey was over, and
there was nothing left but to float quietly down the Nile, for
Kidgwiga had promised boats, on Kamrasi's account, from Unyoro to
Gani, where Petherick's vessels were said to be stationed; but
this hope shared the fate of so many others in Africa. In a
little while an enormous canoe, full of well-dressed and well-
armed men, was seen approaching us. We worked on, and found they
turned, as if afraid. Our men paddled faster, they did the same,
the pages keeping time playfully by beat of drum, until at last
it became an exciting chase, won by the Wanyoro by their superior
numbers. The sun was now setting as we approached N'yamyongo's.
On a rock by the river stood a number of armed men, jumping,
jabbering, and thrusting with their spears, just as the Waganda
do. I thought, indeed, they were Waganda doing this to welcome
us; but a glance at Kasoro's glassy eyes told me such was not the
case, but, on the contrary, their language and gestures were
threats, defying us to land.
The bank of the river, as we advanced, then rose higher, and was
crowned with huts and plantations, before which stood groups and
lines of men, all fully armed. Further, at this juncture, the
canoe we had chased turned broadside on us, and joined in the
threatening demonstrations of the people on shore. I could not
believe them to be serious - thought they had mistaken us - and
stood up in the boat to show myself, hat in hand. I said I was
an Englishman going to Kamrasi's, and did all I could, but
without creating the slightest impression. They had heard a drum
beat, they said, and that was a signal of war, so war it should
be; and Kamrasi's drums rattled up both sides the river,
preparing everybody to arm. This was serious. Further, a second
canoe full of armed men issued out from the rushes behind us, as
if with a view to cut off our retreat, and the one in front
advanced upon us, hemming us in. To retreat together seemed our
only chance, but it was getting dark, and my boats were badly
manned. I gave the order to close together and retire, offering
ammunition as an incentive, and all came to me but one boat,
which seemed so paralysed with fright, it kept spinning round and
round like a crippled duck.
The Wanyoro, as they saw us retreating, were now heard to say,
"They are women, they are running, let us at them;" whilst I kept
roaring to my men, "Keep together - come for powder;" and myself
loaded with small shot, which even made Kasoro laugh and inquire
if it was intended for the Wanyoro. "Yes, to shoot them like
guinea-fowl;" and he laughed again. But confound my men! they
would not keep together, and retreat with me. One of those
served with ammunition went as hard as he could go up stream to
be out of harm's way, and another preferred hugging the dark
shade of the rushes to keeping the clear open, which I desired
for the benefit of our guns. It was not getting painfully dark,
and the Wanyoro were stealing on us, as we could hear, though
nothing could be seen. Presently the shade-seeking boat was
attacked, spears were thrown, fortunately into the river instead
of into our men, and grappling-hooks were used to link the boats
together.
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