For A Time The Engine-Driver Took No
Notice Of Our Signals And Shouts, But At Last We
Succeeded In Attracting His Attention, And The
Train Was Shunted Back To Where The Ostrich Had
Fallen.
We found it to be an exceptionally fine
specimen, and had to exert all our strength to
drag it on board the train.
Soon after this we reached Voi, about a hundred
miles from the coast, and as this was the most
important station on the line that we had yet come
to, we made a short halt in order to inspect some
construction work which was going on. On
resuming our journey, we soon discovered that a
pleasant change had occurred in the character of
the landscape. From a place called N'dii, the
railway runs for some miles through a beautifully
wooded country, which looked all the more
inviting after the deadly monotony of the wilderness
through which we had just passed. To the south
of us could be seen the N'dii range of mountains,
the dwelling-place of the Wa Taita people, while
on our right rose the rigid brow of the N'dungu
Escarpment, which stretches away westwards for
scores of miles. Here our journey was slow, as
every now and again we stopped to inspect the
permanent works in progress; but eventually,
towards dusk, we arrived at our destination, Tsavo.
I slept that night in a little palm hut which had
been built by some previous traveller, and which
was fortunately unoccupied for the time being.
It was rather broken-down and dilapidated, not
even possessing a door, and as I lay on my narrow
camp bed I could see the stars twinkling through
the roof. I little knew then what adventures
awaited me in this neighbourhood; and if I had
realised that at that very time two savage brutes
were prowling round, seeking whom they might
devour, I hardly think I should have slept so
peacefully in my rickety shelter.
Next morning I was up betimes, eager to make
acquaintance with my new surroundings. My first
impression on coming out of my hut was that I was
hemmed in on all sides by a dense growth of
impenetrable jungle: and on scrambling to the top of
a little hill close at hand, I found that the whole
country as far as I could see was covered with low,
stunted trees, thick undergrowth and "wait-a-bit"
thorns. The only clearing, indeed, appeared to be
where the narrow track for the railway had been
cut. This interminable nyika, or wilderness of
whitish and leafless dwarf trees, presented a
ghastly and sun-stricken appearance; and here
and there a ridge of dark-red heat-blistered rock
jutted out above the jungle, and added by its
rugged barrenness to the dreariness of the picture.
Away to the north-east stretched the unbroken
line of the N'dungu Escarpment, while far off to
the south I could just catch a glimpse of the
snow-capped top of towering Kilima N'jaro.
The one redeeming feature of the neighbourhood
was the river from which Tsavo takes its name.
This is a swiftly-flowing stream, always cool and
always running, the latter being an exceptional
attribute in this part of East Africa; and the
fringe of lofty green trees along its banks formed
a welcome relief to the general monotony of the
landscape.
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