A few Masai may still be seen on the Athi
Plains, but as a rule they keep away from the
railway, the majority of the tribe being now
settled on the Laikipia Plateau. Formerly they
were by far the most powerful native race in East
Africa, and when on the war-path were the terror
of the whole country from the furthest limits of
Uganda to Mombasa itself. Their numbers have
latterly become greatly reduced through famine
and small-pox, but the remnant of the tribe,
more especially the men, are still a fine, lithe,
clean-limbed people. While I was stationed in
the Plains I managed to have an interview with
the chief, Lenana, at one of his "royal residences,"
a kraal near Nairobi. He was affability itself,
presenting me with a spear and shield as a
memento of the occasion; but he had the reputation
of being a most wily old potentate, and I found
this quite correct, as whenever he was asked an
awkward question, he would nudge his Prime
Minister and command him to answer for him.
I managed to induce him and his wives and
children to sit for their photograph, and they
made a very fine group indeed; but unfortunately
the negative turned out very badly. I also got
Lenana's nephew and a warrior to engage in
combat with the spear and shield, and both
made fine play with their long keen blades,
which more than once penetrated the opponent's
shield.
The Masai have a wonderfully well-organised
military system. The warriors (elmorani) of the
tribe must attend strictly to their duties, and
are not allowed to marry or to smoke or to
drink until after their term of active service is
completed. Besides the spear and shield they
generally carry a sword or knobkerrie, suspended
from a raw-hide waist-belt; and they certainly
look very ferocious in their weird-looking
headdress when on the warpath. Once or twice I
met detachments out on these expeditions, but
they were always quite friendly to me, even
though I was practically alone. Before the
advent of British rule, however, sudden raids
were constantly being made by them on the
weaker tribes in the country; and when a kraal
was captured all the male defenders-were instantly
killed with the spear, while the women were
put to death during the night with clubs. The
Masai, indeed, never made slaves or took prisoners,
and it was their proud boast that where a party
of elmorani had passed, nothing of any kind was
left alive. The object of these raids was, of
course, to capture live stock, for the Masai are
not an agricultural people and their wealth
consists entirely in their herds of cattle, sheep
and goats. Curiously enough they do not hunt
game, although the country abounds with it, but
live principally on beef and milk; and it is also
a common custom for them to drink daily a pint
or so of blood taken from a live bullock.
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