The
sportsman is obliged to provide each porter with a jersey,
blanket and water-bottle, while the gun-bearer and
"boy" get a pair of boots in addition. A cotton
shelter-tent and a cooking pot must also be furnished
for every five men.
The food for the caravan is mostly rice, of which
the Headman gets two kibabas (a kibaba is about 1-1/2 lb.)
per day; the cook, gun-bearer, "boy" and askaris one
and a half kibabas, and the ordinary porters, one kibaba,
each per day.
It is the duty of the Headman to keep discipline on
the safari (caravan journey), both in camp and on the
march, and to see to the distribution and safety of the
loads, the pitching and striking of camp, the issue of
posho (food) to the porters, etc. He always brings up
the rear of the caravan, and on him depends greatly
the general comfort of the sportsman. For our trip at
the beginning of 1906, we managed to secure a splendid
neapara, and never had the least trouble with the porters
all the time. His only drawback was that he could not
speak English, but he told me when he left us that he
was going to learn. Anybody securing him as
Headman will be lucky; his name is Munyaki bin Dewani,
and he can easily be found at Mombasa.
The cook is also an important member of the caravan,
and a good one should be procured if possible. It is
wonderful what an experienced native mpishi (cook)
can turn out in the way of a meal in a few minutes after
camp is pitched.
As gun-bearer, most hunters prefer a Somali. I have
never tried one, but am told that they are inclined to
be troublesome; they certainly rate themselves very
highly, and demand about four times as much wages as
an equally good Swahili.
In camp, the duties of the askaris are to keep up the
fire and watch at night, and to pitch and strike the
Bwana's (Master's) tent. On the march one leads the
caravan, the other brings up the rear; they give
assistance in the event of any trouble with the loads,
see that no desertions take place, allow no straggling
and generally do what they can to protect the caravan.
They are each armed with an old snider rifle and 10
rounds of ball cartridge, and are generally very
dangerous men to their friends when they take it into their
heads to fire their weapons.
The ordinary porters will carry their 60-lb. loads day
in and day out without complaint, so long as they are,
well fed; but stint them of their rice, and they at once
become sulky mutineers. In addition to carrying the
loads, they pitch and strike camp, procure firewood and
water, and build grass huts if a stay of more than a day
is intended to be made at one place. On the whole, the
Swahili porter is one of the jolliest and most willing
fellows in the world, and I have nothing but praise for him.
It may be that our sportsman intends to confine his
shooting trip to the neighbourhood of the railway; in
this case, the best plan is to hire one of the special
carriages from the Traffic Manager of the Uganda
Railway. These carriages, which have good sleeping,
cooking, and bath accommodation, can be attached to
almost any train, and moved from station to station or
left standing in a siding at the directions of the hunter.
This is the cheapest and most comfortable way of
spending a short time in the country, as no tent, camp
equipment, or regular porters are required; and some
quite good sport can be obtained into the bargain.
Again, if the hunter intends shooting, say, in the
Kenya Province, as many porters as he requires may be
obtained from the official in charge at Fort Hall.
The pay of the Kikuyu porter in such circumstances
is only two annas a day, while he provides his own
food; neither is the sportsman asked to furnish him
with a blanket, jersey, and water-bottle so long as he
is not taken out of his own Province. Each Province
is, in fact, governed as regards porters by its own special
conditions, which can easily be ascertained on arrival in
the country.
There are three lines of steamers which have direct
sailings to Mombasa about once a month. Two of
these (the Union-Castle and the German East African
Lines) sail from Southampton, calling at Marseilles,
while the third (the Messageries-Maritimes) starts from
the latter port. As a rule travellers to East Africa
journey by the overland route to Marseilles and thence
on by steamer to Mombasa - the whole journey from
London averaging about eighteen days.
The present fares for the best accommodation from
London to Mombasa by the Union-Castle Line
(including railway ticket to Marseilles) are as follows
First-Class Single, about 48 pounds; Return (available for
one year) about 93 pounds.
The fares by the German East African Line
(including railway ticket to Marseilles) are: - First-Class;
Single, about 48 pounds. The Return fare (available for one;
year) is double the Single fare, less 10 per cent, of ocean
part of journey.
By the Messageries-Maritimes Line the through
First-Class Single fare from London to Mombasa
(including railway ticket to Marseilles) is about 48 pounds.
The Return fare (available for two years) is about 72 pounds.
Fairly good hotel accommodation can be had at both
Mombasa and Nairobi.
Before any shooting can be done it is necessary to
take out a Game License, which may be obtained
without difficulty at either of these two centres.