After Three Hours' Sail, On The Morning Of The 29th, The River Was
Narrowed Again By The Mountains Of Mburuma, Called Karivua, Into One
Channel, And Another Rapid Dimly Appeared.
It was formed by two
currents guided by rocks to the centre.
In going down it, the men
sent by Sekeletu behaved very nobly. The canoes entered without
previous survey, and the huge jobbling waves of mid-current began at
once to fill them. With great presence of mind, and without a
moment's hesitation, two men lightened each by jumping overboard;
they then ordered a Botoka man to do the same, as "the white men must
be saved." "I cannot swim," said the Batoka. "Jump out, then, and
hold on to the canoe;" which he instantly did. Swimming alongside,
they guided the swamping canoes down the swift current to the foot of
the rapid, and then ran them ashore to bale them out. A boat could
have passed down safely, but our canoes were not a foot above the
water at the gunwales.
Thanks to the bravery of these poor fellows, nothing was lost,
although everything was well soaked. This rapid is nearly opposite
the west end of the Mburuma mountains or Karivua. Another soon
begins below it. They are said to be all smoothed over when the
river rises. The canoes had to be unloaded at this the worst rapid,
and the goods carried about a hundred yards. By taking the time in
which a piece of stick floated past 100 feet, we found the current to
be running six knots, by far the greatest velocity noted in the
river. As the men were bringing the last canoe down close to the
shore, the stern swung round into the current, and all except one man
let go, rather than be dragged off. He clung to the bow, and was
swept out into the middle of the stream. Having held on when he
ought to have let go, he next put his life in jeopardy by letting go
when he ought to have held on; and was in a few seconds swallowed up
by a fearful whirlpool. His comrades launched out a canoe below, and
caught him as he rose the third time to the surface, and saved him,
though much exhausted and very cold.
The scenery of this pass reminded us of Kebrabasa, although it is
much inferior. A band of the same black shining glaze runs along the
rocks about two feet from the water's edge. There was not a blade of
grass on some of the hills, it being the end of the usual dry season
succeeding a previous severe drought; yet the hill-sides were dotted
over with beautiful green trees. A few antelopes were seen on the
rugged slopes, where some people too appeared lying down, taking a
cup of beer. The Karivua narrows are about thirty miles in length.
They end at the mountain Roganora. Two rocks, twelve or fifteen feet
above the water at the time we were there, may in flood be covered
and dangerous. Our chief danger was the wind, a very slight ripple
being sufficient to swamp canoes.
CHAPTER IX.
The waterbuck - Disaster in Kebrabasa rapids - The "Ma Robert"
founders - Arrival of the "Pioneer" and Bishop Mackenzie's party -
Portuguese slave-trade - Interference and liberation.
We arrived at Zumbo, at the mouth of the Loangwa, on the 1st of
November. The water being scarcely up to the knee, our land party
waded this river with ease. A buffalo was shot on an island opposite
Pangola's, the ball lodging in the spleen. It was found to have been
wounded in the same organ previously, for an iron bullet was imbedded
in it, and the wound entirely healed. A great deal of the plant
Pistia stratiotes was seen floating in the river. Many people
inhabit the right bank about this part, yet the game is very
abundant.
As we were taking our breakfast on the morning of the 2nd, the Mambo
Kazai, of whom we knew nothing, and his men came with their muskets
and large powder-horns to levy a fine, and obtain payment for the
wood we used in cooking. But on our replying to his demand that we
were English, "Oh! are you?" he said; "I thought you were Bazungu
(Portuguese). They are the people I take payments from:" and he
apologized for his mistake. Bazungu, or Azungu, is a term applied to
all foreigners of a light colour, and to Arabs; even to trading
slaves if clothed; it probably means foreigners, or visitors, - from
zunga, to visit or wander, - and the Portuguese were the only
foreigners these men had ever seen. As we had no desire to pass for
people of that nation - quite the contrary - we usually made a broad
line of demarcation by saying that we were English, and the English
neither bought, sold, nor held black people as slaves, but wished to
put a stop to the slave-trade altogether.
We called upon our friend, Mpende, in passing. He provided a hut for
us, with new mats spread on the floor. Having told him that we were
hurrying on because the rains were near, "Are they near?" eagerly
inquired an old counsellor, "and are we to have plenty of rain this
year?" We could only say that it was about the usual time for the
rains to commence; and that there were the usual indications in great
abundance of clouds floating westwards, but that we knew nothing more
than they did themselves.
The hippopotami are more wary here than higher up, as the natives
hunt them with guns. Having shot one on a shallow sandbank, our men
undertook to bring it over to the left bank, in order to cut it up
with greater ease. It was a fine fat one, and all rejoiced in the
hope of eating the fat for butter, with our hard dry cakes of native
meal. Our cook was sent over to cut a choice piece for dinner, but
returned with the astonishing intelligence that the carcass was gone.
They had been hoodwinked, and were very much ashamed of themselves.
A number of Banyai came to assist in rolling it ashore, and asserted
that it was all shallow water.
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