The Palabi Mountain Stands On The Western
Side Of The Lower End Of The Kariba Strait; The Range To Which It
Belongs Crosses The River, And Runs To The South-East.
Chikumbula, a
hospitable old headman, under Nchomokela, the paramount chief of a
large district, whom we did not see,
Brought us next morning a great
basket of meal, and four fowls, with some beer, and a cake of salt,
"to make it taste good." Chikumbula said that the elephants plagued
them, by eating up the cotton-plants; but his people seem to be well
off.
A few days before we came, they caught three buffaloes in pitfalls in
one night, and, unable to eat them all, left one to rot. During the
night the wind changed and blew from the dead buffalo to our
sleeping-place; and a hungry lion, not at all dainty in his food,
stirred up the putrid mass, and growled and gloated over his feast,
to the disturbance of our slumbers. Game of all kinds is in most
extraordinary abundance, especially from this point to below the
Kafue, and so it is on Moselekatso's side, where there are no
inhabitants. The drought drives all the game to the river to drink.
An hour's walk on the right bank, morning or evening, reveals a
country swarming with wild animals: vast herds of pallahs, many
waterbucks, koodoos, buffaloes, wild pigs, elands, zebras, and
monkeys appear; francolins, guinea-fowls, and myriads of turtledoves
attract the eye in the covers, with the fresh spoor of elephants and
rhinoceroses, which had been at the river during the night. Every
few miles we came upon a school of hippopotami, asleep on some
shallow sandbank; their bodies, nearly all out of the water, appeared
like masses of black rock in the river. When these animals are
hunted much, they become proportionably wary, but here no hunter ever
troubles them, and they repose in security, always however taking the
precaution of sleeping just above the deep channel, into which they
can plunge when alarmed. When a shot is fired into a sleeping herd,
all start up on their feet, and stare with peculiar stolid looks of
hippopotamic surprise, and wait for another shot before dashing into
deep water. A few miles below Chikumbula's we saw a white
hippopotamus in a herd. Our men had never seen one like it before.
It was of a pinkish white, exactly like the colour of the Albino. It
seemed to be the father of a number of others, for there were many
marked with large light patches. The so-called WHITE elephant is
just such a pinkish Albino as this hippopotamus. A few miles above
Kariba we observed that, in two small hamlets, many of the
inhabitants had a similar affection of the skin. The same influence
appeared to have affected man and beast. A dark coloured
hippopotamus stood alone, as if expelled from the herd, and bit the
water, shaking his head from side to side in a most frantic manner.
When the female has twins, she is said to kill one of them.
We touched at the beautiful tree-covered island of Kalabi, opposite
where Tuba-mokoro lectured the lion in our way up. The ancestors of
the people who now inhabit this island possessed cattle. The tsetse
has taken possession of the country since "the beeves were lifted."
No one knows where these insects breed; at a certain season all
disappear, and as suddenly come back, no one knows whence. The
natives are such close observers of nature, that their ignorance in
this case surprised us. A solitary hippopotamus had selected the
little bay in which we landed, and where the women drew water, for
his dwelling-place. Pretty little lizards, with light blue and red
tails, run among the rocks, catching flies and other insects. These
harmless - though to new-comers repulsive - creatures sometimes perform
good service to man, by eating great numbers of the destructive white
ants.
At noon on the 24th October, we found Sequasha in a village below the
Kafue, with the main body of his people. He said that 210 elephants
had been killed during his trip; many of his men being excellent
hunters. The numbers of animals we saw renders this possible. He
reported that, after reaching the Kafue, he went northwards into the
country of the Zulus, whose ancestors formerly migrated from the
south and set up a sort of Republican form of government. Sequasha
is the greatest Portuguese traveller we ever became acquainted with,
and he boasts that he is able to speak a dozen different dialects;
yet, unfortunately, he can give but a very meagre account of the
countries and people he has seen, and his statements are not very
much to be relied on. But considering the influence among which he
has been reared, and the want of the means of education at Tette, it
is a wonder that he possesses the good traits that he sometimes
exhibits. Among his wares were several cheap American clocks; a
useless investment rather, for a part of Africa where no one cares
for the artificial measurement of time. These clocks got him into
trouble among the Banyai: he set them all agoing in the presence of
a chief, who became frightened at the strange sounds they made, and
looked upon them as so many witchcraft agencies at work to bring all
manner of evils upon himself and his people. Sequasha, it was
decided, had been guilty of a milando, or crime, and he had to pay a
heavy fine of cloth and beads for his exhibition. He alluded to our
having heard that he had killed Mpangwe, and he denied having
actually done so; but in his absence his name had got mixed up in the
affair, in consequence of his slaves, while drinking beer one night
with Namakusuru, the man who succeeded Mpangwe, saying that they
would kill the chief for him. His partner had not thought of this
when we saw him on the way up, for he tried to excuse the murder, by
saying that now they had put the right man into the chieftainship.
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