Sacred To
What Deity Would Be This Awful Chasm And That Dark Grove, Over Which
Hovers An Ever-Abiding "Pillar Of Cloud"?
The ancient Batoka chieftains used Kazeruka, now Garden Island, and
Boaruka, the island further west, also on the lip of the Falls, as
sacred spots for worshipping the Deity.
It is no wonder that under
the cloudy columns, and near the brilliant rainbows, with the
ceaseless roar of the cataract, with the perpetual flow, as if
pouring forth from the hand of the Almighty, their souls should be
filled with reverential awe. It inspired wonder in the native mind
throughout the interior. Among the first questions asked by
Sebituane of Mr. Oswell and Dr. Livingstone, in 1851, was, "Have you
any smoke soundings in your country," and "what causes the smoke to
rise for ever so high out of water?" In that year its fame was heard
200 miles off, and it was approached within two days; but it was seen
by no European till 1855, when Dr. Livingstone visited it on his way
to the East Coast. Being then accompanied as far as this Fall by
Sekeletu and 200 followers, his stay was necessarily short; and the
two days there were employed in observations for fixing the
geographical position of the place, and turning the showers, that at
times sweep from the columns of vapour across the island, to account,
in teaching the Makololo arboriculture, and making that garden from
which the natives named the island; so that he did not visit the
opposite sides of the cleft, nor see the wonderful course of the
river beyond the Falls. The hippopotami had destroyed the trees
which were then planted; and, though a strong stockaded hedge was
made again, and living orange-trees, cashew-nuts, and coffee seeds
put in afresh, we fear that the perseverance of the hippopotami will
overcome the obstacle of the hedge. It would require a resident
missionary to rear European fruit-trees. The period at which the
peach and apricot come into blossom is about the end of the dry
season, and artificial irrigation is necessary. The Batoka, the only
arboriculturists in the country, rear native fruit-trees alone - the
mosibe, the motsikiri, the boma, and others. When a tribe takes an
interest in trees, it becomes more attached to the spot on which they
are planted, and they prove one of the civilizing influences.
Where one Englishman goes, others are sure to follow. Mr. Baldwin, a
gentleman from Natal, succeeded in reaching the Falls guided by his
pocket-compass alone. On meeting the second subject of Her Majesty,
who had ever beheld the greatest of African wonders, we found him a
sort of prisoner at large. He had called on Mashotlane to ferry him
over to the north side of the river, and, when nearly over, he took a
bath, by jumping in and swimming ashore. "If," said Mashotlane, "he
had been devoured by one of the crocodiles which abound there, the
English would have blamed us for his death. He nearly inflicted a
great injury upon us, therefore, we said, he must pay a fine." As
Mr. Baldwin had nothing with him wherewith to pay, they were taking
care of him till he should receive beads from his wagon, two days
distant.
Mashotlane's education had been received in the camp of Sebituane,
where but little regard was paid to human life. He was not yet in
his prime, and his fine open countenance presented to us no
indication of the evil influences which unhappily, from infancy, had
been at work on his mind. The native eye was more penetrating than
ours; for the expression of our men was, "He has drunk the blood of
men - you may see it in his eyes." He made no further difficulty
about Mr. Baldwin; but the week after we left he inflicted a severe
wound on the head of one of his wives with his rhinoceros-horn club.
She, being of a good family, left him, and we subsequently met her
and another of his wives proceeding up the country.
The ground is strewn with agates for a number of miles above the
Falls; but the fires, which burn off the grass yearly, have injured
most of those on the surface. Our men were delighted to hear that
they do as well as flints for muskets; and this with the new ideas of
the value of gold (dalama) and malachite, that they had acquired at
Tette, made them conceive that we were not altogether silly in
picking up and looking at stones.
Marching up the river, we crossed the Lekone at its confluence, about
eight miles above the island Kalai, and went on to a village opposite
the Island Chundu. Nambowe, the headman, is one of the Matebele or
Zulus, who have had to flee from the anger of Moselekatse, to take
refuge with the Makololo.
We spent Sunday, the 12th, at the village of Molele, a tall old
Batoka, who was proud of having formerly been a great favourite with
Sebituane. In coming hither we passed through patches of forest
abounding in all sorts of game. The elephants' tusks, placed over
graves, are now allowed to decay, and the skulls, which the former
Batoka stuck on poles to ornament their villages, not being renewed,
now crumble into dust. Here the famine, of which we had heard,
became apparent, Molele's people being employed in digging up the
tsitla root out of the marshes, and cutting out the soft core of the
young palm-trees, for food.
The village, situated on the side of a wooded ridge, commands an
extensive view of a great expanse of meadow and marsh lying along the
bank of the river. On these holmes herds of buffaloes and waterbucks
daily graze in security, as they have in the reedy marshes a refuge
into which they can run on the approach of danger. The pretty little
tianyane or ourebi is abundant further on, and herds of blue
weldebeests or brindled gnus (Katoblepas Gorgon) amused us by their
fantastic capers.
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