After A Weary March We Halted At Makolongwi, The Village Of Chitimba.
It Stands In A Woody Hollow On The First Of The Three Terraces Of The
Manganja Hills, And, Like All Other Manganja Villages, Is Surrounded
By An Impenetrable Hedge Of Poisonous Euphorbia.
This tree casts a
deep shade, which would render it difficult for bowmen to take aim at
the villagers inside.
The grass does not grow beneath it, and this
may be the reason why it is so universally used, for when dry the
grass would readily convey fire to the huts inside; moreover, the
hedge acts as a fender to all flying sparks. As strangers are wont
to do, we sat down under some fine trees near the entrance of the
village. A couple of mats, made of split reeds, were spread for the
white men to sit on; and the headman brought a seguati, or present,
of a small goat and a basket of meal. The full value in beads and
cotton cloth was handed to him in return. He measured the cloth,
doubled it, and then measured that again. The beads were
scrutinized; he had never seen beads of that colour before, and
should like to consult with his comrades before accepting them, and
this, after repeated examinations and much anxious talk, he concluded
to do. Meal and peas were then brought for sale. A fathom of blue
cotton cloth, a full dress for man or woman, was produced. Our
Makololo headman, Sininyane, thinking a part of it was enough for the
meal, was proceeding to tear it, when Chitimba remarked that it was a
pity to cut such a nice dress for his wife, he would rather bring
more meal. "All right," said Sininyane; "but look, the cloth is very
wide, so see that the basket which carries the meal be wide too, and
add a cock to make the meal taste nicely." A brisk trade sprang up
at once, each being eager to obtain as fine things as his neighbour,-
-and all were in good humour. Women and girls began to pound and
grind meal, and men and boys chased the screaming fowls over the
village, until they ran them down. In a few hours the market was
completely glutted with every sort of native food; the prices,
however, rarely fell, as they could easily eat what was not sold.
We slept under the trees, the air being pheasant, and no mosquitoes
on the hills. According to our usual plan of marching, by early dawn
our camp was in motion. After a cup of coffee and a bit of biscuit
we were on the way. The air was deliciously cool, and the path a
little easier than that of yesterday. We passed a number of
villages, occupying very picturesque spots among the hills, and in a
few hours gained the upper terrace, 3000 feet above the level of the
sea. The plateau lies west of the Milanje mountains, and its north-
eastern border slopes down to Lake Shirwa. We were all charmed with
the splendid country, and looked with never-failing delight on its
fertile plains, its numerous hills, and majestic mountains. In some
of the passes we saw bramble-berries growing; and the many other
flowers, though of great beauty, did not remind us of youth and of
home like the ungainly thorny bramble-bushes. We were a week in
crossing the high-lands in a northerly direction; then we descended
into the Upper Shire Valley, which is nearly 1200 feet above the
level of the sea. This valley is wonderfully fertile, and supports a
large population. After leaving the somewhat flat-topped southern
portion, the most prominent mountain of the Zomba range is Njongone,
which has a fine stream running past its northern base. We were
detained at the end of the chain some days by one of our companions
being laid up with fever. One night we were suddenly aroused by
buffaloes rushing close by the sick-bed. We were encamped by a wood
on the border of a marsh, but our patient soon recovered,
notwithstanding the unfavourable situation, and the poor
accommodation.
The Manganja country is delightfully well watered. The clear, cool,
gushing streams are very numerous. Once we passed seven fine brooks
and a spring in a single hour, and this, too, near the close of the
dry season. Mount Zomba, which is twenty miles long, and from 7000
to 8000 feet high, has a beautiful stream flowing through a verdant
valley on its summit, and running away down into Lake Shirwa. The
highlands are well wooded, and many trees, admirable for their height
and timber, grow on the various watercourses. "Is this country good
for cattle?" we inquired of a Makololo herdsman, whose occupation had
given him skill in pasturage. "Truly," he replied, "do you not see
abundance of those grasses which the cattle love, and get fat upon?"
Yet the people have but few goats, and fewer sheep. With the
exception of an occasional leopard, there are no beasts of prey to
disturb domestic animals. Wool-sheep would, without doubt, thrive on
these highlands. Part of the Upper Shire valley has a lady
paramount, named Nyango; and in her dominions women rank higher and
receive more respectful treatment than their sisters on the hills.
The hill chief, Mongazi, called his wife to take charge of a present
we had given him. She dropped down on her knees, clapping her hands
in reverence, before and after receiving our presents from his lordly
hands. It was painful to see the abject manner in which the women of
the hill tribes knelt beside the path as we passed; but a great
difference took place when we got into Nyango's country.
On entering a village, we proceeded, as all strangers do, at once to
the Boalo: mats of split reeds or bamboo were usually spread for us
to sit on. Our guides then told the men who might be there, who we
were, whence we had come, whither we wanted to go, and what were our
objects.
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