Many Baobab-Trees Grow In Different
Spots, And The Few People Seen Were Using The White Pulp Found
Between The Seeds To Make A Pleasant Subacid Drink.
On passing Malango, near the uppermost cataract, not a soul was to be
seen; but, as we rested opposite
A beautiful tree-covered island, the
merry voices of children at play fell on our ears - the parents had
fled thither for protection from the slave-hunting Ajawa, still urged
on by the occasional visits of the Portuguese agents from Tette. The
Ajawa, instead of passing below the Cataracts, now avoided us, and
crossed over to the east side near to the tree on which we had hung
the boat. Those of the Manganja, to whom we could make ourselves
known, readily came to us; but the majority had lost all confidence
in themselves, in each other, and in every one else. The boat had
been burned about three months previously, and the Manganja were very
anxious that we should believe that this had been the act of the
Ajawa; but on scanning the spot we saw that it was more likely to
have caught fire in the grass-burning of the country. Had we
intended to be so long in returning to it, we should have hoisted it
bottom upwards; for, as it was, it is probable that a quantity of
dried leaves lay inside, and a spark ignited the whole. All the
trees within fifty yards were scorched and killed, and the nails,
iron, and copper sheathing, all lay undisturbed beneath. Had the
Ajawa done the deed, they would have taken away the copper and iron.
Our hopes of rendering ourselves independent of the south for
provisions, by means of this boat, being thus disappointed, we turned
back with the intention of carrying another up to the same spot; and,
in order to find level ground for this, we passed across from the
Shire at Malango to the upper part of the stream Lesungwe. A fine,
active, intelligent fellow, called Pekila, guided us, and was
remarkable as almost the only one of the population left with any
spirit in him. The depressing effect which the slave-hunting scourge
has upon the native mind, though little to be wondered at, is sad,
very sad to witness. Musical instruments, mats, pillows, mortars for
pounding meal, were lying about unused, and becoming the prey of the
white ants. With all their little comforts destroyed, the survivors
were thrown still further back into barbarism.
It is of little importance perhaps to any but travellers to notice
that in occupying one night a well-built hut, which had been shut up
for some time, the air inside at once gave us a chill, and an attack
of fever; both of which vanished when the place was well-ventilated
by means of a fire. We have frequently observed that lighting a fire
early in the mornings, even in the hottest time of the year, gives
freshness to the whole house, and removes that feeling of closeness
and langour, which a hot climate induces.
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