Bonga, The Brother Of The Rebel Mariano, And Now At The
Head Of The Revolted Natives, With Some Of His Principal Men Came To
See Us, And Were Perfectly Friendly, Though Told Of Our Having
Carried The Sick Governor Across To Shupanga, And Of Our Having Cured
Him Of Fever.
On our acquainting Bonga with the object of the
expedition, he remarked that we should suffer no hindrance from his
people in our good work.
He sent us a present of rice, two sheep,
and a quantity of firewood. He never tried to make any use of us in
the strife; the other side showed less confidence, by carefully
cross-questioning our pilot whether we had sold any powder to the
enemy. We managed, however, to keep on good terms with both rebels
and Portuguese.
Senna is built on a low plain, on the right bank of the Zambesi, with
some pretty detached hills in the background; it is surrounded by a
stockade of living trees to protect its inhabitants from their
troublesome and rebellious neighbours. It contains a few large
houses, some ruins of others, and a weather-beaten cross, where once
stood a church; a mound shows the site of an ancient monastery, and a
mud fort by the river is so dilapidated, that cows were grazing
peacefully over its prostrate walls.
The few Senna merchants, having little or no trade in the village,
send parties of trusted slaves into the interior to hunt for and
purchase ivory. It is a dull place, and very conducive to sleep.
One is sure to take fever in Senna on the second day, if by chance
one escapes it on the first day of a sojourn there; but no place is
entirely bad. Senna has one redeeming feature: it is the native
village of the large-hearted and hospitable Senhor H. A. Ferrao. The
benevolence of this gentleman is unbounded. The poor black stranger
passing through the town goes to him almost as a matter of course for
food, and is never sent away hungry. In times of famine the starving
natives are fed by his generosity; hundreds of his own people he
never sees except on these occasions; and the only benefit derived
from being their master is, that they lean on him as a patriarchal
chief, and he has the satisfaction of settling their differences, and
of saving their lives in seasons of drought and scarcity.
Senhor Ferrao received us with his usual kindness, and gave us a
bountiful breakfast. During the day the principal men of the place
called, and were unanimously of opinion that the free natives would
willingly cultivate large quantities of cotton, could they find
purchasers. They had in former times exported largely both cotton
and cloth to Manica and even to Brazil. "On their own soil," they
declared, "the natives are willing to labour and trade, provided only
they can do so to advantage: when it is for their interest, blacks
work very hard." We often remarked subsequently that this was the
opinion of men of energy; and that all settlers of activity,
enterprise, and sober habits had become rich, while those who were
much addicted to lying on their backs smoking, invariably complained
of the laziness of the negroes, and were poor, proud, and despicable.
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