Rounding Cape Maclear, And Looking To The South-
West, We Have Another Arm, Which Stretches Some Eighteen Miles
Southward, And Is From Six To Twelve Miles In Breadth.
These arms
give the southern end a forked appearance, and with the help of a
little imagination it may
Be likened to the "boot-shape" of Italy.
The narrowest part is about the ankle, eighteen or twenty miles.
From this it widens to the north, and in the upper third or fourth it
is fifty or sixty miles broad. The length is over 200 miles. The
direction in which it lies is as near as possible due north and
south. Nothing of the great bend to the west, shown in all the
previous maps, could be detected by either compass or chronometer,
and the watch we used was an excellent one. The season of the year
was very unfavourable. The "smokes" filled the air with an
impenetrable haze, and the equinoctial gales made it impossible for
us to cross to the eastern side. When we caught a glimpse of the sun
rising from behind the mountains to the east, we made sketches and
bearings of them at different latitudes, which enabled us to secure
approximate measurements of the width. These agreed with the times
taken by the natives at the different crossing-places - as Tsenga and
Molamba. About the beginning of the upper third the lake is crossed
by taking advantage of the island Chizumara, which name in the native
tongue means the "ending;" further north they go round the end
instead, though that takes several days.
The lake appeared to be surrounded by mountains, but it was
afterwards found that these beautiful tree-covered heights were, on
the west, only the edges of high table-lands. Like all narrow seas
encircled by highlands, it is visited by sudden and tremendous
storms. We were on it in September and October, perhaps the
stormiest season of the year, and were repeatedly detained by gales.
At times, while sailing pleasantly over the blue water with a gentle
breeze, suddenly and without any warning was heard the sound of a
coming storm, roaring on with crowds of angry waves in its wake. We
were caught one morning with the sea breaking all around us, and,
unable either to advance or recede, anchored a mile from shore, in
seven fathoms. The furious surf on the beach would have shivered our
boat to atoms, had we tried to land. The waves most dreaded came
rolling on in threes, with their crests, driven into spray, streaming
behind them. A short lull followed each triple charge. Had one of
these seas struck our boat, nothing could have saved us; for they
came on with resistless force; seaward, in shore, and on either side
of us, they broke in foam, but we escaped. For six weary hours we
faced those terrible trios. A low, dark, detached, oddly shaped
cloud came slowly from the mountains, and hung for hours directly
over our heads.
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