Dr. Livingstone Having Fallen
Asleep After A Fatiguing March, A Hole In The Roof Of The Hut He Was
In Allowed The Sun To Beat On His Head, And Caused A Splitting
Headache And Deafness:
While he was nearly insensible, he felt
Masiko repeatedly lift him back to the bed off which he had rolled,
and cover him up.
On the 24th we were again in Banda, at the village of Chasundu, and
could now see clearly the hot valley in which the Shire flows, and
the mountains of the Manganja beyond to our south-east. Instead of
following the road by which we had come, we resolved to go south
along the Lesungwe, which rises at Zunje, a peak on the same ridge as
Mvai, and a part of Kirk's Range, which bounds the country of the
Maravi on our west. This is about the limit of the beat of the
Portuguese native traders, and it is but recently that, following our
footsteps, they have come so far. It is not likely that their
enterprise will lead them further north, for Chasundu informed us
that the Babisa under-sell the agents from Tette. He had tried to
deal with the latter when they first came; but they offered only ten
fathoms of calico for a tusk, for which the Babisa gave him twenty
fathoms and a little powder. Ivory was brought to us for sale again
and again, and, as far as we could judge, the price expected would be
about one yard of calico per pound, or possibly more, for there is no
scale of prices known. The rule seems to be that buyer and seller
shall spend a good deal of time in trying to cheat each other before
coming to any conclusion over a bargain.
We found the Lesungwe a fine stream near its source, and about forty
feet wide and knee-deep, when joined by the Lekudzi, which comes down
from the Maravi country.
Guinea-fowl abounded, but no grain could be purchased, for the people
had cultivated only the holmes along the banks with maize and
pumpkins. Time enough had not elapsed since the slave-trader's
invasion, and destruction of their stores, for them to raise crops of
grain on the adjacent lands. To deal with them for a few heads of
maize was the hungry bargaining with the famished, so we hastened on
southwards as fast as the excessive heat would allow us. It was
impossible to march in the middle of the day, the heat was so
intolerable; and we could not go on at night, because, if we had
chanced to meet any of the inhabitants, we should have been taken for
marauders.
We had now thunder every afternoon; but while occasional showers
seemed to fall at different parts, none fell on us. The air was
deliciously clear, and revealed all the landscape covered everywhere
with forest, and bounded by beautiful mountains. On the 31st October
we reached the Mukuru-Madse, after having travelled 660 geographical
miles, or 760 English miles in a straight line. This was
accomplished in fifty-five travelling days, twelve miles per diem on
an average. If the numerous bendings and windings, and ups and downs
of the paths could have been measured too, the distance would have
been found at least fifteen miles a day.
The night we slept at the Mukuru-Madse it thundered heavily, but, as
this had been the case every afternoon, and no rain had followed, we
erected no shelter, but during this night a pouring rain came on.
When very tired a man feels determined to sleep in spite of
everything, and the sound of dropping water is said to be conducive
to slumber, but that does not refer to an African storm. If, when
half asleep in spite of a heavy shower on the back of the head, he
unconsciously turns on his side, the drops from the branches make
such capital shots into his ear, that the brain rings again.
We were off next morning, the 1st of November, as soon as the day
dawned. In walking about seven miles to the ship, our clothes were
thoroughly dried by the hot sun, and an attack of fever followed. We
relate this little incident to point out the almost certain
consequence of getting wet in this climate, and allowing the clothes
to dry on the person. Even if we walk in the mornings when the dew
is on the grass, and only get our feet and legs wet, a very uneasy
feeling and partial fever with pains in the limbs ensue, and continue
till the march onwards bathes them in perspiration. Had Bishop
Mackenzie been aware of this, which, before experience alone had
taught us, entailed many a severe lesson, we know no earthly reason
why his valuable life might not have been spared. The difference
between getting the clothes soaked in England and in Africa is this:
in the cold climate the patient is compelled, or, at any rate,
warned, by discomfort to resort at once to a change of raiment; while
in Africa it is cooling and rather pleasant to allow the clothes to
dry on the person. A Missionary in proportion as he possesses an
athletic frame, hardened by manly exercises, in addition to his other
qualifications, will excel him who is not favoured with such bodily
endowments; but in a hot climate efficiency mainly depends on
husbanding the resources. He must never forget that, in the tropics,
he is an exotic plant.
CHAPTER XV.
Confidence of natives - Bishop Tozer - Withdrawal of the Mission party-
-The English leave - Hazardous voyage to Mosambique - Dr. Livingstone's
voyage to Bombay - Return to England.
We were delighted and thankful to find all those left at the ship in
good health, and that from the employments in which they had been
occupied they had suffered less from fever than usual during our
absence. My companion, Thomas Ward, the steward, after having
performed his part in the march right bravely, rejoined his comrades
stronger than he had ever been before.
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