We Spent One Night At Machambwe's Village, And Another At Chimbuzi's.
It Is Seldom That We Can Find The Headman On First Entering A
Village.
He gets out of the way till he has heard all about the
strangers, or he is actually out in the fields looking after his
farms.
We once thought that when the headman came in from a visit of
inspection, with his spear, bow and arrows, they had been all taken
up for the occasion, and that he had all the while been hidden in
some hut slily watching till he heard that the strangers might be
trusted; but on listening to the details given by these men of the
appearances of the crops at different parts, and the astonishing
minuteness of the speakers' topography, we were persuaded that in
some cases we were wrong, and felt rather humiliated. Every knoll,
hill, mountain, and every peak on a range has a name; and so has
every watercourse, dell, and plain. In fact, every feature and
portion of the country is so minutely distinguished by appropriate
names, that it would take a lifetime to decipher their meaning. It
is not the want, but the superabundance of names that misleads
travellers, and the terms used are so multifarious that good scholars
will at times scarcely know more than the subject of conversation.
Though it is a little apart from the topic of the attention which the
headmen pay to agriculture, yet it may be here mentioned, while
speaking of the fulness of the language, that we have heard about a
score of words to indicate different varieties of gait - one walks
leaning forward, or backward, swaying from side to side, loungingly,
or smartly, swaggeringly, swinging the arms, or only one arm, head
down or up, or otherwise; each of these modes of walking was
expressed by a particular verb; and more words were used to designate
the different varieties of fools than we ever tried to count.
Mr. Moffat has translated the whole Bible into the language of the
Bechuana, and has diligently studied this tongue for the last forty-
four-years; and, though knowing far more of the language than any of
the natives who have been reared on the Mission-station of Kuruman,
he does not pretend to have mastered it fully even yet. However
copious it may be in terms of which we do not feel the necessity, it
is poor in others, as in abstract terms, and words used to describe
mental operations.
Our third day's march ended in the afternoon of the 27th September,
1863, at the village of Chinanga on the banks of a branch of the
Loangwa. A large, rounded mass of granite, a thousand feet high,
called Nombe rume, stand on the plain a few miles off. It is quite
remarkable, because it has so little vegetation on it. Several other
granitic hills stand near it, ornamented with trees, like most
heights of this country, and a heap of blue mountains appears away in
the north.
The effect of the piercing winds upon the men had never been got rid
of. Several had been unable to carry a load ever since we ascended
to the highlands; we had lost one, and another poor lad was so ill as
to cause us great anxiety. By waiting in this village, which was so
old that it was full of vermin, all became worse. Our European food
was entirely expended, and native meal, though finely ground, has so
many sharp angular particles in it, that it brought back dysentery,
from which we had suffered so much in May. We could scarcely obtain
food for the men. The headman of this village of Chinanga was off in
a foray against some people further north to supply slaves to the
traders expected along the slave route we had just left; and was
said, after having expelled the inhabitants, to be living in their
stockade, and devouring their corn. The conquered tribe had
purchased what was called a peace by presenting the conqueror with
three women.
This state of matters afforded us but a poor prospect of finding more
provisions in that direction than we could with great difficulty and
at enormous prices obtain here. But neither want of food, dysentery,
nor slave wars would have prevented our working our way round the
Lake in some other direction, had we had time; but we had received
orders from the Foreign Office to take the "Pioneer" down to the sea
in the previous April. The salaries of all the men in her were
positively "in any case to cease by the 31st of December."
We were said to be only ten days' distant from Lake Bemba. We might
speculate on a late rise of the river. A month or six weeks would
secure a geographical feat, but the rains were near. We had been
warned by different people that the rains were close at hand, and
that we should then be bogged and unable to travel. The flood in the
river might be an early one, or so small in volume as to give but one
chance of the "Pioneer" descending to the ocean. The Makololo too
were becoming dispirited by sickness and want of food, and were
naturally anxious to be back to their fields in time for sowing. But
in addition to all this and more, it was felt that it would not be
dealing honestly with the Government, were we, for the sake of a
little eclat, to risk the detention of the "Pioneer" up the river
during another year; so we decided to return; and though we had
afterwards the mortification to find that we were detained two full
months at the ship waiting for the flood which we expected
immediately after our arrival there, the chagrin was lessened by a
consciousness of having acted in a fair, honest, above-board manner
throughout.
On the night of the 29th of September a thief came to the sleeping-
place of our men and stole a leg of a goat.
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