Here We See Them In A Conglomeration,
Each With A Train Of Pure White Vapour, Racing Down Till Lost In
Clouds Of Spray.
A stone dropped in became less and less to the eye,
and at last disappeared in the dense mist below.
Charles Livingstone had seen Niagara, and gave Mosi-oa-tunya the
palm, though now at the end of a drought, and the river at its very
lowest. Many feel a disappointment on first seeing the great
American Falls, but Mosi-oa-tunya is so strange, it must ever cause
wonder. In the amount of water, Niagara probably excels, though not
during the months when the Zambesi is in flood. The vast body of
water, separating in the comet-like forms described, necessarily
encloses in its descent a large volume of air, which, forced into the
cleft, to an unknown depth, rebounds, and rushes up loaded with
vapour to form the three or even six columns, as if of steam, visible
at the Batoka village Moachemba, twenty-one miles distant. On
attaining a height of 200, or at most 300 feet from the level of the
river above the cascade, this vapour becomes condensed into a
perpetual shower of fine rain. Much of the spray, rising to the west
of Garden Island, falls on the grove of evergreen trees opposite; and
from their leaves, heavy drops are for ever falling, to form sundry
little rills, which, in running down the steep face of rock, are
blown off and turned back, or licked off their perpendicular bed, up
into the column from which they have just descended.
The morning sun gilds these columns of watery smoke with all the
glowing colours of double or treble rainbows. The evening sun, from
a hot yellow sky, imparts a sulphureous hue, and gives one the
impression that the yawning gulf might resemble the mouth of the
bottomless pit. No bird sits and sings on the branches of the grove
of perpetual showers, or ever builds its nest there. We saw
hornbills and flocks of little black weavers flying across from the
mainland to the islands, and from the islands to the points of the
promontories and back again, but they uniformly shunned the region of
perpetual rain, occupied by the evergreen grove. The sunshine,
elsewhere in this land so overpowering, never penetrates the deep
gloom of that shade. In the presence of the strange Mosi-oa-tunya,
we can sympathize with those who, when the world was young, peopled
earth, air, and river, with beings not of mortal form. Sacred to
what deity would be this awful chasm and that dark grove, over which
hovers an ever-abiding "pillar of cloud"?
The ancient Batoka chieftains used Kazeruka, now Garden Island, and
Boaruka, the island further west, also on the lip of the Falls, as
sacred spots for worshipping the Deity. It is no wonder that under
the cloudy columns, and near the brilliant rainbows, with the
ceaseless roar of the cataract, with the perpetual flow, as if
pouring forth from the hand of the Almighty, their souls should be
filled with reverential awe.
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