They Declared That The Whole Party Which Went To Loanda
Had Perished; And As I Always Quoted The Instances In Which They Failed,
Many Of Them Refused To Throw The "Bola" (Instruments Of Divination)
When I Was Near.
This was a noted instance of failure.
It would have afforded me equal if not greater pleasure
to have
Exposed the failure, if such it had been, of the European diviner
whose paper lay a whole year on this island, but I was obliged to confess
that he had been successful with his "bola", and could only comfort myself
with the idea that, though Sir Roderick Murchison's discourse
had lain so long within sight and sound of the magnificent falls,
I had been "cut out" by no one in their discovery.
I saw the falls at low water, and the columns of vapor
when five or six miles distant. When the river is full, or in flood,
the columns, it is said, can be seen ten miles off, and the sound
is quite distinct somewhat below Kalai, or about an equal distance.
No one can then go to the island in the middle. The next visitor
must bear these points in mind in comparing his description with mine.
We here got information of a foray which had been made by a Makololo man
in the direction we were going. This instance of marauding was so much
in accordance with the system which has been pursued in this country
that I did not wonder at it. But the man had used Sekeletu's name as having
sent him, and, the proof being convincing, he would undoubtedly be fined.
As that would be the first instance of a fine being levied for marauding,
I looked upon it as the beginning of a better state of things.
In tribes which have been accustomed to cattle-stealing, the act is not
considered immoral in the way that theft is. Before I knew the language well,
I said to a chief, "You stole the cattle of so and so."
"No, I did not steal them," was the reply, "I only LIFTED them."
The word "gapa" is identical with the Highland term for the same deed.
Another point came to our notice here. Some Mambari had come down thus far,
and induced the Batoka to sell a very large tusk which belonged to Sekeletu
for a few bits of cloth. They had gone among the Batoka who need hoes,
and, having purchased some of these from the people near Sesheke,
induced the others living farther east to sell both ivory and children.
They would not part with children for clothing or beads, but agriculture
with wooden hoes is so laborious, that the sight of the hoes prevailed.
The Makololo proposed to knock the Mambari on the head as the remedy
the next time they came; but on my proposing that they should
send hoes themselves, and thereby secure the ivory in a quiet way,
all approved highly of the idea, and Pitsane and Mohorisi expatiated on
the value of the ivory, their own willingness to go and sell it at Loanda,
and the disgust with which the Mambari whom we met in Angola had looked upon
their attempt to reach the proper market. If nothing untoward happens,
I think there is a fair prospect of the trade in slaves
being abolished in a natural way in this quarter, Pitsane and Mohorisi
having again expressed their willingness to go away back to Loanda
if Sekeletu would give them orders. This was the more remarkable,
as both have plenty of food and leisure at home.
20TH NOVEMBER. Sekeletu and his large party having conveyed me thus far,
and furnished me with a company of 114 men to carry the tusks to the coast,
we bade adieu to the Makololo, and proceeded northward to the Lekone.
The country around is very beautiful, and was once well peopled with Batoka,
who possessed enormous herds of cattle. When Sebituane came in former times,
with his small but warlike party of Makololo, to this spot,
a general rising took place of the Batoka through the whole country,
in order to "eat him up"; but his usual success followed him,
and, dispersing them, the Makololo obtained so many cattle
that they could not take any note of the herds of sheep and goats.
The tsetse has been brought by buffaloes into some districts where formerly
cattle abounded. This obliged us to travel the first few stages by night.
We could not well detect the nature of the country in the dim moonlight;
the path, however, seemed to lead along the high bank of what may have been
the ancient bed of the Zambesi before the fissure was made.
The Lekone now winds in it in an opposite direction to that in which
the ancient river must have flowed.
Both the Lekone and Unguesi flow back toward the centre of the country,
and in an opposite direction to that of the main stream.
It was plain, then, that we were ascending the farther we went eastward.
The level of the lower portion of the Lekone is about two hundred feet
above that of the Zambesi at the falls, and considerably more
than the altitude of Linyanti; consequently, when the river flowed along
this ancient bed instead of through the rent, the whole country between this
and the ridge beyond Libebe westward, Lake Ngami and the Zouga southward,
and eastward beyond Nchokotsa, was one large fresh-water lake.
There is abundant evidence of the existence and extent of this vast lake
in the longitudes indicated, and stretching from 17 Deg. to 21 Deg.
south latitude. The whole of this space is paved with a bed of tufa,
more or less soft, according as it is covered with soil, or left exposed
to atmospheric influences. Wherever ant-eaters make deep holes
in this ancient bottom, fresh-water shells are thrown out,
identical with those now existing in the Lake Ngami and the Zambesi.
The Barotse valley was another lake of a similar nature;
and one existed beyond Masiko, and a fourth near the Orange River.
The whole of these lakes were let out by means of cracks or fissures
made in the subtending sides by the upheaval of the country.
The fissure made at the Victoria Falls let out the water of this great valley,
and left a small patch in what was probably its deepest portion,
and is now called Lake Ngami.
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