Both myself and men having recovered from
severe attacks of fever, we left the hospitable residence of Mr. Canto
with a deep sense of his kindness to us all, and proceeded on our way
to Ambaca.
(Lat. 9d 16' 35" S., long. 15d 23' E.)
Frequent rains had fallen in October and November, which were nearly always
accompanied with thunder. Occasionally the quantity of moisture
in the atmosphere is greatly increased without any visible cause:
this imparts a sensation of considerable cold, though the thermometer
exhibits no fall of the mercury. The greater humidity in the air,
affording a better conducting medium for the radiation of heat from the body,
is as dangerous as a sudden fall of the thermometer: it causes considerable
disease among the natives, and this season is denominated "Carneirado",
as if by the disease they were slaughtered like sheep.
The season of these changes, which is the most favorable for Europeans,
is the most unhealthy for the native population; and this is by no means
a climate in which either natives or Europeans can indulge in irregularities
with impunity.
Owing to the weakness of the men who had been sick, we were able
to march but short distances. Three hours and a half brought us
to the banks of the Caloi, a small stream which flows into the Senza.
This is one of the parts of the country reputed to yield petroleum,
but the geological formation, being mica schist, dipping toward the eastward,
did not promise much for our finding it. Our hospitable friend, Mr. Mellot,
accompanied us to another little river, called the Quango,
where I saw two fine boys, the sons of the sub-commandant, Mr. Feltao,
who, though only from six to eight years old, were subject to fever.
We then passed on in the bright sunlight, the whole country
looking so fresh and green after the rains, and every thing so cheering,
one could not but wonder to find it so feverish.
We found, on reaching Ambaca, that the gallant old soldier,
Laurence Jose Marquis, had, since our passing Icollo i Bengo,
been promoted, on account of his stern integrity, to the government
of this important district. The office of commandant is much coveted
by the officers of the line who come to Angola, not so much for the salary
as for the perquisites, which, when managed skillfully,
in the course of a few years make one rich. An idea may be formed
of the conduct of some of these officials from the following extract
from the Boletin of Loanda of the 28th of October, 1854:
"The acting governor-general of the province of Angola and its dependencies
determines as follows:
"Having instituted an investigation (Syndecancia) against
the commandant of the fort of - - , a captain of the army of Portugal
in commission in this province, - - , on account of numerous complaints,
which have come before this government, of violences and extortions
practiced by the said commandant, and those complaints appearing
by the result of the investigation to be well founded, it will be convenient
to exonerate the captain referred to from the command of the fort of - - ,
to which he had been nominated by the portfolio of this general government,
No. 41, of 27th December of the past year; and if not otherwise determined,
the same official shall be judged by a council of war for the criminal acts
which are to him attributed."
Even this public mention of his crimes attaches no stigma
to the man's character. The council of war, by which these delinquents
always prefer to be judged, is composed of men who eagerly expect
to occupy the post of commandant themselves, and anticipate their own trial
for similar acts at some future time. The severest sentence
a council of war awards is a few weeks' suspension from office
in his regiment.
This want of official integrity, which is not at all attributable
to the home government of Portugal, would prove a serious impediment in
the way of foreign enterprise developing the resources of this rich province.
And to this cause, indeed, may be ascribed the failure of the Portuguese laws
for the entire suppression of the slave-trade. The officers ought to receive
higher pay, if integrity is expected from them. At present,
a captain's pay for a year will only keep him in good uniform.
The high pay our own officers receive has manifest advantages.
Before leaving Ambaca we received a present of ten head of cattle
from Mr. Schut of Loanda, and, as it shows the cheapness of provisions here,
I may mention that the cost was only about a guinea per head.
On crossing the Lucalla we made a detour to the south, in order to visit
the famous rocks of Pungo Andongo. As soon as we crossed the rivulet Lotete,
a change in the vegetation of the country was apparent. We found trees
identical with those to be seen south of the Chobe. The grass, too,
stands in tufts, and is of that kind which the natives consider
to be best adapted for cattle. Two species of grape-bearing vines
abound every where in this district, and the influence of the good pasturage
is seen in the plump condition of the cattle. In all my previous inquiries
respecting the vegetable products of Angola, I was invariably directed
to Pungo Andongo. Do you grow wheat? "Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongo."
- Grapes, figs, or peaches? "Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongo."
- Do you make butter, cheese, etc.? The uniform answer was,
"Oh, yes, there is abundance of all these in Pungo Andongo."
But when we arrived here, we found that the answers all referred
to the activity of one man, Colonel Manuel Antonio Pires.
The presence of the wild grape shows that vineyards might be cultivated
with success; the wheat grows well without irrigation;
and any one who tasted the butter and cheese at the table of Colonel Pires
would prefer them to the stale produce of the Irish dairy, in general use
throughout that province.
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