There Is Not Very Much To See, But From
There One Has A Fine View Of Other Temples - Of The
Ramesseum, looking
superb, like a grand skeleton; of Medinet-Abu, distant, very pale gold
in the morning sunlight; of little
Deir-al-Medinet, the pretty child
of the Ptolemies, with the heads of the seven Hathors. And from Kurna
the Colossi are exceptionally grand and exceptionally personal, so
personal that one imagines one sees the expressions of the faces that
they no longer possess.
Even if you do not go into the tombs - but you will go - you must ride
to the tombs of the kings; and you must, if you care for the finesse
of impressions, ride on a blazing day and toward the hour of noon.
Then the ravine is itself, like the great act that demonstrates a
temperament. It is the narrow home of fire, hemmed in by brilliant
colors, nearly all - perhaps quite all - of which could be found in a
glowing furnace. Every shade of yellow is there - lemon yellow, sulphur
yellow, the yellow of amber, the yellow of orange with its tendency
toward red, the yellow of gold, sand color, sun color. Cannot all
these yellows be found in a fire? And there are the reds - pink of the
carnation, pink of the coral, red of the little rose that grows in
certain places of sands, red of the bright flame's heart. And all
these colors are mingled in complete sterility. And all are fused into
a fierce brotherhood by the sun. and like a flood, they seem flowing
to the red and the yellow mountains, like a flood that is flowing to
its sea. You are taken by them toward the mountains, on and on, till
the world is closing in, and you know the way must come to an end. And
it comes to an end - in a tomb.
You go to a door in the rock, and a guardian lets you in, and wants to
follow you in. Prevent him if you can. Pay him. Go in alone. For this
is the tomb of Amenhotep II.; and he himself is here, far down, at
rest under the mountain, this king who lived and reigned more than
fourteen hundred years before the birth of Christ. The ravine-valley
leads to him, and you should go to him alone. He lies in the heart of
the living rock, in the dull heat of the earth's bowels, which is like
no other heat. You descend by stairs and corridors, you pass over a
well by a bridge, you pass through a naked chamber; and the king is
not there. And you go on down another staircase, and along another
corridor, and you come into a pillared chamber, with paintings on its
walls, and on its pillars, paintings of the king in the presence of
the gods of the underworld, under stars in a soft blue sky. And below
you, shut in on the farther side by the solid mountain in whose breast
you have all this time been walking, there is a crypt.
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