And Always, In Looking, I Have
Thought Of The "Sposalizio" Of Raphael In The Brera At Milan, Of The
Tiny Dream Of Blue Country Framed By The Temple Doorway Beyond The
Virgin And Saint Joseph.
The doorways of the temples of Egypt are very
noble, and nowhere have I been more struck by their nobility than in
Medinet-Abu.
Set in huge walls of massive masonry, which rise slightly
above them on each side, with a projecting cornice, in their
simplicity they look extraordinarily classical, in their sobriety
mysterious, and in their great solidity quite wonderfully elegant. And
they always suggest to me that they are giving access to courts and
chambers which still, even in our times, are dedicated to secret cults
- to the cults of Isis, of Hathor, and of Osiris.
Close to the right of the front of Medinet-Abu there are trees covered
with yellow flowers; beyond are fields of doura. Behind the temple is
a sterility which makes one think of metal. A great calm enfolds the
place. The buildings are of the same color as the Colossi. When I
speak of the buildings, I include the great temple, the pavilion of
Rameses III., and the little temple, which together may be said to
form Medinet-Abu. Whereas the temple of Luxor seems to open its arms
to life, and the great fascination of the Ramesseum comes partly from
its invasion by every traveling air and happy sun-ray, its openness
and freedom, Medinet-Abu impresses by its colossal air of secrecy, by
its fortress-like seclusion. Its walls are immensely thick, and are
covered with figures the same color as the walls, some of them very
tall. Thick-set, massive, heavy, almost warlike it is. Two seated
statues within, statues with animals' faces, steel-colored, or perhaps
a little darker than that, look like savage warders ready to repel
intrusion.
Passing between them, delicately as Agag, one enters an open space
with ruins, upon the right of which is a low, small temple, grey in
hue, and covered with inscriptions, which looks almost bowed under its
tremendous weight of years. From this dignified, though tiny, veteran
there comes a perpetual sound of birds. The birds in Egypt have no
reverence for age. Never have I seen them more restless, more gay, or
more impertinent, than in the immemorial ruins of the ancient land.
Beyond is an enormous portal, on the lofty ceiling of which still
linger traces of faded red and blue, which gives access to a great
hall with rows of mighty columns, those on the left hand round, those
on the right square, and almost terribly massive. There is in these no
grace, as in the giant lotus columns of Karnak. Prodigious, heavy,
barbaric, they are like a hymn in stone to Strength. There is
something brutal in their aspect, which again makes one think of war,
of assaults repelled, hordes beaten back like waves by a sea-wall. And
still another great hall, with more gigantic columns, lies in the sun
beyond, and a doorway through which seems to stare fiercely the edge
of a hard and fiery mountain.
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