From A Distance They Resemble A
Nature Effect, Are Almost Like A Bit Of Southern Sea Or Of Sky, A
Fragment Of Gleaming Mediterranean Seen Through The Pillars Of A
Loggia, Or Of Sicilian Blue Watching Over Etna In The Long Summer
Days.
When one is close to them, they are a miracle of art.
The
background of them is a milky white upon which is an elaborate pattern
of purple and blue, generally conventional and representative of no
known object, but occasionally showing tall trees somewhat resembling
cypresses. But it is impossible in words adequately to describe the
effect of these tiles, and of the tiles that line to the very roof the
tomb-house on the right of the court. They are like a cry of ecstasy
going up in this otherwise not very beautiful mosque; they make it
unforgettable, they draw you back to it again and yet again. On the
darkest day of winter they set something of summer there. In the
saddest moment they proclaim the fact that there is joy in the world,
that there was joy in the hearts of creative artists years upon years
ago. If you are ever in Cairo, and sink into depression, go to the
"Blue Mosque" and see if it does not have upon you an uplifting moral
effect. And then, if you like go on from it to the Gamia El Movayad,
sometimes called El Ahmar, "The Red," where you will find greater
glories, though no greater fascination; for the tiles hold their own
among all the wonders of Cairo.
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