I Can't
Help It If It Does, And Am Not Ashamed To Confess That I Feel The
Old Sort Of Enchanted Wonder With Which I Used To Read Cook's
Voyages, And The Like, As A Child.
It is very coarse and
unintellectual of me; but I would rather see this now, at my age,
than Italy; the fresh, new, beautiful nature is a second youth - or
CHILDHOOD - si vous voulez.
To-morrow we shall cross the highest
pass I have yet crossed, and sleep at Paarl - then Stellenbosch,
then Capetown. For any one OUT of health, and IN pocket, I should
certainly prescribe the purchase of a waggon and team of six
horses, and a long, slow progress in South Africa. One cannot walk
in the midday sun, but driving with a very light roof over one's
head is quite delicious. When I looked back upon my dreary, lonely
prison at Ventnor, I wondered I had survived it at all.
Capetown, March 7th.
After writing last, we drove out, on Sunday afternoon, to a deep
alpine valley, to see a NEW BRIDGE - a great marvel apparently. The
old Spanish Joe Miller about selling the bridge to buy water
occurred to me, and made Sabaal laugh immensely. The Dutch farmers
were tearing home from Kerk, in their carts - well-dressed,
prosperous-looking folks, with capital horses. Such lovely farms,
snugly nestled in orange and pomegranate groves! It is of no use
to describe this scenery; it is always mountains, and always
beautiful opal mountains; quite without the gloom of European
mountain scenery. The atmosphere must make the charm. I hear that
an English traveller went the same journey and found all barren
from Dan to Beersheba. I'm sorry for him.
In the morning of Sunday, early, I walked along the road with
Sabaal, and saw a picture I shall never forget. A little Malabar
girl had just been bathing in the Sloot, and had put her scanty
shift on her lovely little wet brown body; she stood in the water
with the drops glittering on her brown skin and black, satin hair,
the perfection of youthful loveliness - a naiad of ten years old.
When the shape and features are PERFECT, as hers were, the coffee-
brown shows it better than our colour, on account of its perfect
EVENNESS - like the dead white of marble. I shall never forget her
as she stood playing with the leaves of the gum-tree which hung
over her, and gazing with her glorious eyes so placidly.
On Monday morning, I walked off early to the old Drosdy
(Landdrost's house), found an old gentleman, who turned out to be
the owner, and who asked me my name and all the rest of the Dutch
'litanei' of questions, and showed me the pretty old Dutch garden
and the house - a very handsome one. I walked back to breakfast,
and thought Worcester the prettiest place I had ever seen. We then
started for Paarl, and drove through 'Bain's Kloof', a splendid
mountain-pass, four hours' long, constant driving.
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