The Whole Way We Saw No Human Being Or Habitation,
Except One Shepherd, From The Time We Passed Buntje's Kraal, About
Two Miles Out Of Caledon.
The little drinking-shop would not hold
travellers, so I went to the house of the storekeeper (as the
clergyman of Caledon had told me I might), and found a most kind
reception.
Our host was English, an old man-of-war's man, with a
gentle, kindly Dutch wife, and the best-mannered children I have
seen in the colony. They gave us clean comfortable beds and a good
dinner, and wine ten years in the cellar; in short, the best of
hospitality. I made an effort to pay for the entertainment next
morning, when, after a good breakfast, we started loaded with
fruit, but the kind people would not hear of it, and bid me good-
bye like old friends. At the end of the valley we went a little
up-hill, and then found ourselves at the top of a pass down into
the level below. S- and I burst out with one voice, 'How
beautiful!' Sabaal, our driver, thought the exclamation was an
ironical remark on the road, which, indeed, appeared to be
exclusively intended for goats. I suggested walking down, to
which, for a wonder, the Malay agreed. I was really curious to see
him get down with two wheels and four horses, where I had to lay
hold from time to time in walking. The track was excessively
steep, barely wide enough, and as slippery as a flagstone pavement,
being the naked mountain-top, which is bare rock.
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