Accordingly we made a small fire, concealing it with shields.
"At 3 A.M. on Friday, the 4th February, we resumed our journey. After
about an hour and a half arriving at a good grazing ground, we halted to
feed the mules, and then watered them at Alooli. At 1 P.M. I found the sun
so oppressive that I was obliged to halt for two hours. We had struck off
to the right of the route pursued by the Embassy, and crossed, not the
Salt Lake, but the hills to the southward. The wind blowing very strong
considerably retarded our progress, so that we did not arrive at Dahfurri,
our halting-place, till sunset. Dahfurri is situated about four miles to
the southward of Mhow, the encampment of the Embassy near the Lake, and
about 300 yards to the eastward of the road. Here we found a large basin
of excellent water, which the Tajoorians informed me was a mere mass of
mud when we passed by to Shoa, but that the late rains had cleared away
all the impurities. After sunset a gale of wind blew.
"At 1 A.M. on the 5th February, the wind having decreased we started.
Passing through the pass of the Rer Essa, the barking of dogs caused us
some little uneasiness, as it betrayed the vicinity of the Bedoo, whether
friend or foe we knew not. Ibrahim requested us to keep close order, and
to be silent. As day broke we descended into the plain of Warrah Lissun,
where we halted and ate the last of the grain. After half an hour's halt
we continued our journey. Ibrahim soon declared his inability to keep up
with us, so he recommended me to the care of the Bedoo and Deeni, saying
he would follow slowly. We arrived at Sagulloo about 11 A.M., and Ibrahim
about two hours afterwards. At 3 P.M. we resumed our march, and a little
before sunset arrived at Ambaboo.
"The elders had a conference which lasted about a quarter of an hour, when
they came forward and welcomed me, directing men to look after my mules. I
was led to a house which had been cleaned for my reception. Ibrahim then
brought water and a bag of dates, and shortly afterwards some rice and
milk. Many villagers called to pay their respects, and remained but a
short time as I wanted repose: they would scarcely believe that I had
travelled in eighteen days from Shoa, including four day's halt.
"Early on the morning of the 6th February I set out for Tajoorah, where I
was received with every demonstration of welcome by both rich and poor.
The Sultan gave me his house, and after I had drunk a cup of coffee with
him, considerately ordered away all the people who had flocked to see me,
as, he remarked, I must be tired after so rapid a journey.
"It may not be amiss to mention here that the British character stands
very high at Tajoorah. The people assured me that since the British had
taken Aden they had enjoyed peace and security, and that from being
beggars they had become princes. As a proof of their sincerity they said
with pride, 'Look at our village, you saw it a year and a half ago, you
know what it was then, behold what is now!' I confessed that it had been
much improved."
(From Tajoorah the traveller, after awarding his attendants, took boat for
Zayla, where he was hospitably received by the Hajj Sharmarkay's agent.
Suffering severely from fever, on Monday the 14th February he put to sea
again and visited Berberah, where he lived in Sharmarkay's house, and
finally he arrived at Aden on Friday the 25th February, 1842. He concludes
the narrative of his adventure as follows.)
"It is due to myself that I should offer some explanation for the rough
manner in which this report is drawn up. On leaving Shoa the Caffilah
people marked with a jealous eye that I seemed to number the slaves and
camels, and Deeni reported to me that they had observed my making entries
in my note-book. Whenever the Bedoos on the road caught sight of a piece
of paper, they were loud in their demands for it. [4] Our marches were so
rapid that I was scarcely allowed time sufficient to prepare for the
fatigues of the ensuing day, and experience had taught me the necessity of
keeping a vigilant watch. [5] Aware that Government must be anxious for
information from the 'Mission,' I performed the journey in a shorter space
of time than any messenger, however highly paid, has yet done it, and for
several days lived on coffee and parched grain. Moreover, on arrival at
Aden, I was so weak from severe illness that I could write but at short
intervals.
"It will not, I trust, be considered that the alteration in my route was
caused by trivial circumstances. It would have been absurd to have
remained with the Bedoos without an interpreter: there would have been
daily disputes and misunderstandings, and I had already sufficient insight
into the character of Datah Mahomed to perceive that his avarice was
insatiable. Supposing I had passed through his hands, there was the chief
of Bedar, who, besides expecting much more than I had given to Datah
Mahomed, would, it is almost certain, eventually have forwarded me to
Tajoorah. Finally, if I can believe the innumerable reports of the people,
both at Tajoorah and Zalaya, neither I myself nor my servants would ever
have passed through the kingdom of Hurrur. The jealousy of the prince
against foreigners is so great that, although he would not injure them
within the limits of his own dominions, he would cause them to waylaid and
murdered on the road."
FOOTNOTES
[1] Thus in the original.
