"Filled up with a large supply of wood ready to start tomorrow.
"March 5. - Great good fortune! A fine north wind for the first time
during many days. All the vessels sailing well. We started at 7 a.m. Saw
a Baleniceps Rex[*]; this is the second of these rare birds that I have
seen.
[*Footnote: The whale-headed stork, or Baleniceps Rex, is only met with
in the immense swamps of the White Nile. This bird feeds generally upon
water shellfish, for which nature has provided a most powerful beak
armed with a hook at the extremity.)
"At 1 p.m., as we were steaming easily, I happened to be asleep on the
poop-deck, when I was suddenly awakened by a shock, succeeded almost
immediately by the cry, `The ship's sinking!' A hippopotamus had charged
the steamer from the bottom, and had smashed several floats off her
starboard paddle. A few seconds later he charged our diahbeeah, and
striking her bottom about ten feet from the bow, he cut two holes
through the iron plates with his tusks. There was no time to lose, as
the water was rushing in with great force. Fortunately, in this land of
marsh and floating grass, there were a few feet of tolerably firm ground
rising from the deep water. Running alongside, all hands were hard at
work discharging cargo with great rapidity, and baling out with every
conceivable utensil, until we obtained assistance from the steamer,
whose large hand pump and numerous buckets at length so far overcame the
rush of water, that we could discover the leaks.
"We now found two clean holes punched through the iron as though driven
by a sharp pickaxe. Some hours were occupied in repairing the damage by
plastering white lead upon some thick felt; this was placed over the
holes, and small pieces of plank being laid over the felt, they were
secured by an upright piece of timber tightened with wedges from a
cross-beam. The leaks were thus effectually and permanently stopped.
"By sunset all was completed and the vessel reloaded; but I sent
twenty-eight boxes of snider ammunition on board the tender. This
miserable wood tender has sprung her yard so that she cannot carry sail.
The day was entirely lost together with a fine north wind.
"March, 6. - Brisk wind from the north. Started at 5.45 a.m., but at 7
a.m. something happened to the engine, and the steamer stopped until
eight. After frequent stoppages, owing to the sharp bends in the narrow
river, we arrived at the spot where we had formerly opened the dam;
there the current ran like a rapid.
"March 7. - Much difficulty in ascending the river, but upon arrival at
the dry ground (called the 'dubba'), we found the No. 8 steamer and the
whole fleet assembled, with the exception of six that are in sight.
"March 8. - The other vessels arrived; I have thus thirty-four sail,
including the two steamers. The entire country is swamp, covered with
immensely high water-grass, beneath which the depth is considerable. The
reputed main channel of the river is supposed to come from S.W., this is
only denoted by a stream three or four feet broad, concealed by high
grass, and in places choked by the Pistia Stratiotes. These surface
plants, which resemble floating cabbages with fine thready roots, like a
human beard of sixteen inches in length, form dense masses which are
very difficult to clear
"Our guides are useless, as we cannot depend upon their contradictory
statements. We are in a deplorable position - the whole fleet in a
cul-de-sac; the river has disappeared; an unknown distance of apparently
boundless marsh lies before us; there is no wood, and there is no
possibility of moving without cutting a channel.
"I have ordered thirty vessels to form in line, single file, and to cut
a canal.
"March. 9. - The men worked famously, but I much fear they will be laid
up with fever if kept at such an unhealthy task. To-day a force of 700
men cut about a mile and a half. They are obliged to slash through with
swords and knives, and then to pull out the greater portion of the grass
and vegetable trash; this is piled like artificial banks on either side
upon the thick floating surface of vegetation. I took a small boat and
pushed on for a mile and a half. I found a very narrow stream, like a
small brook, which gave hopes of lighter labour for to-morrow. I shall
therefore try to force the steamer through. Thirty-two men reported on
the sick list this evening.
"March 10. - A fine north wind for about half an hour, when it suddenly
chopped round to the S.E. We cut on far ahead, so that I was able to
push on the steamers and the whole fleet for a distance of about five
miles. I had a touch of fever.
"March 11. - Frightful stinking morass. All stopped at a black muddy pond
in the swamp. The river is altogether lost. We have to cut a passage
through the morass. Hard work throughout the day. One soldier died of
sunstroke. No ground in which to bury him.
"It is a curious but most painful fact that the entire White Nile has
ceased to be a navigable river. The boundless plains of marsh are formed
of floating rafts of vegetation compressed into firm masses by the
pressure of water during floods. So serious is this obstacle to
navigation, that unless a new channel can be discovered, or the original
Nile be reopened, the centre of Africa will be entirely shut out from
communication, and all my projects for the improvement of the country
will be ruined by this extraordinary impediment.
