On 19th March we started at 6.50 a.m., all our carriers being well
provided with food. The country was as usual a well-watered undulating
prairie, abounding in game. At this season the journey was very
delightful, but when the grass is about nine feet high it is simply
detestable travelling.
On the march, we, as usual, led the way. Lieutenant Baker dismounted for
a shot at a splendid buck (Leucotis), which he wounded somewhere behind,
and the animal made off in evident discomfort. This was a signal for the
natives, who immediately put down their loads and started off in
pursuit, like a pack of hounds.
Although the animal was badly hit, the pace was very great, and it went
along the face of the opposite undulation followed by the extraordinary
runners, who, with their long springing strides, kept up a speed for
about three-quarters of a mile that at length brought the leading native
sufficiently near for throwing his lance. The next moment a crowd of
hungry fellows fell upon the welcome name like starving wolves.
After a march of twelve miles we arrived at a rocky stream of clear
water, which is another channel of the Un-y-Ame river, that carries off
the main drainage of this country. We halted to refresh the people and
to have our breakfast on the clean rock that bordered the stream, and
started for the afternoon march at 2 p.m.
During the march I endeavoured to stalk a large bull tetel (Antelope
bubulis), but there was very little chance in so open a country. The
animal galloped off exactly in a straight line from me at about 200
yards. I put up the last leaf of the sight, and I distinctly heard the
bullet strike. The next moment I saw the animal was wounded. It was just
disappearing over the next undulation, and upon arriving at the spot, I
saw the wounded bull standing about 200 yards before me.
I approached from behind until within 100 paces, without being observed
by the tetel, who was evidently very bad. Moving slightly to my right, I
was quickly seen, and the animal turned its flank preparatory to making
off. A shot from the "Dutchman" through the shoulder killed it on the
spot.
I now found that my first bullet had struck the spine exactly above the
root of the tail. This large animal was a good supply for the people,
who quickly divided it and continued the march, until, having crossed
another stream, we left the open prairie gad entered a low forest.
Halted for the night. The march during this day bad been nineteen miles.
On the 20th we marched, from 6 A.M. till 9.45, through undulating
forest, and halted upon high ground, which commanded a fine view of the
mountain that borders the west shore of the Albert N'yanza, opposite
Magungo, about fifty-five miles S. S. W. From our elevated point we
looked down over a fine extent of country, and the Fatiko natives
pointed out the course of the White Nile from the great lake, along
which was a line of smoke, caused, according to their accounts, by the
fishermen who were at this season burning the high reeds on the river's
bank.
The natives were thoroughly conversant with the country, as they had on
several occasions accompanied the slave-hunters in razzias along the
river to Foquatch and Magungo. Just as we halted, a party of Umiro
hunters came across our path, but immediately took to flight, as they
supposed we were enemies.
The day's march had been thirteen miles, and we were requested by our
guide, Shooli, to halt for the night, as there was no water for a
considerable distance to the south.
I immediately employed the soldiers in the construction of a cattle
kraal, lest the prowling Umiro should endeavour to scare the animals
during the night.
On 21st March we started at 6 A.M., and marched thirteen miles through
forest. We at length reached water, but it was so thick with mud that
the horses refused to drink it.
On the 22nd we were compelled to march twenty-three miles, as the water
was quite undrinkable, the few muddy pools having been stirred into
paste by the buffaloes and elephants.
We now reached the grand Victoria Nile, flowing beneath cliffs of
seventy or eighty feet in depth, through magnificent forest. It was
refreshing for all parties to obtain pure water after the miserable
fluid we had lately been compelled to drink.
In the evening a sheik and several people, who had known me formerly,
crossed the river from the Unyoro side, and desired an interview. They
reported that the Khartoum traders had almost destroyed the country, and
they begged me simply to judge with my own eyes.
I must now extract from my journal the entry of the date, as, although
briefly written, it will convey the impression of the moment: -
"March 23, 1872. - We marched three miles east, along the banks of the
beautiful Victoria Nile, through fine open forest, until we halted on a
high cliff exactly opposite, the last station of Abou Saood, commanded
by a vakeel named Suleiman.
"It is impossible to describe the change that has taken place since I
last visited this country. It was then a perfect garden, thickly
populated, and producing all that man could desire. The villages were
numerous; groves of plantains fringed the steep cliff's on the river's
bank; and the natives were neatly dressed in the bark cloth of the
country.
"The scene has changed!
"All is wilderness! The population has fled. Not a village is to be
seen!
"This is the certain result of the settlement of Khartoum traders.
