From a former residence of five
months at Shooa, both my wife and myself were well known to the
inhabitants, and I felt sure that our arrival would be hailed with
gladness. In my former visit I had been a successful hunter, and had
always given the flesh to the natives; thus, as the road to a negro's
heart is through his stomach, I knew that my absence must have been
felt, and that the recollections of past times would be savoury and
agreeable.
I had with me a herd of 1,078 cows and 194 sheep. No guard was
necessary, and I intrusted the stock to the care of the three boatmen,
and my Bari interpreter, Morgian.
The line of march was thus arranged: - Myself, with my wife and
Lieutenant Baker, on horseback in advance, preceded by the guard of five
of the "Forty Thieves." Then came Colonel Abd-el-Kader and the remaining
forty-three, composing the gallant "Forty." After which came the
regiment, all necessarily in single file. Then came the baggage with 400
carriers, followed by the herd of cattle.
All our boys were dressed in their scarlet uniforms, and the girls and
women generally had dressed in their best clothes. Little Cuckoo as
usual carried my small travelling-bag upon his head, and kept his line
with the other boys, all of whom assumed an air that was intended to be
thoroughly regimental.
In this order the march commenced. The distance was only six miles. This
was as lovely a route as could be conceived.
Magnificent trees (acacias), whose thick, dark foliage drooped near the
ground, were grouped in clumps, springing from the crevices between huge
blocks of granite. Brooks of the purest water rippled over the time-worn
channels cut through granite plateaux, and as we halted to drink at the
tempting stream, the water tasted as cold as though from an European
spring.
The entire country on our left was a succession of the most beautiful
rocky undulations and deep verdant glades, at the bottom of which flowed
perennial streams. The banks of these rivulets were richly clothed with
ornamental timber, the green foliage contrasting strongly with the dark
grey blocks of granite resembling the ruins of ancient towers.
We travelled along a kind of hog's back, which formed the watershed to
the west. As we ascended, until we reached a large plateau of clean
granite of about two acres, we broke upon a magnificent panorama, which
commanded an extensive view of the whole country.
On the west, we looked down upon the plains through which we had
arrived, and the view stretched far away beyond the Nile, until it met
the horizon bounded by the grey outline of the distant mountains.
No one could feel unhappy in such a scene. I trod upon my old ground,
every step of which I knew, and I felt an exhilaration of spirits at the
fact that I was once more here in the new capacity of a deliverer, who
would be welcomed with open arms by the down-trodden natives of this
country.
Having descended from the clean plateau of rock, we carefully rode
across a slippery channel that had been worn by the sandy torrents of
the rainy season, and once more arrived at level ground. We were now on
the great table-land of Fatiko.
Upon our left, a mass of bold ruins, the granite skeleton remains of a
perished mountain, which formed a shelter from the morning sun, tempted
us to halt.
We had thus suddenly appeared upon the greensward of the plateau without
the slightest warning to the inhabitants of Fatiko. About a mile before
us stood the large station of Abou Saood, which occupied at least thirty
acres. On our right we were hemmed in by a wall of granite, sloped like
a huge whale, about three-quarters of a mile long and 100 feet high. The
southern extremity of this vast block of clean granite was the rocky and
fantastic hill of Fatiko crested with fine timber. To our left, and
straight before us, was a perfectly flat plain like a race-course, the
south end being a curious and beautiful assemblage of immense granite
blocks, and groups of weeping acacia.
A large village occupied the base of Fatiko hill ... The bugles and
drums sounded "the advance." The echoes rang from the hard granite rock
as the unusual sound gave the first warning of our presence.
I had dismounted from my horse, and was watching the slaver's camp with
a powerful telescope, as the bugles sounded and the men fell into order.
A number of people ran out of the camp, and stared at the blaze of
scarlet uniforms, which must have appeared as a larger force than the
reality, owing to the bright contrast of red with the green turf.
In an instant there was confusion in the camp. I soon distinguished
immense numbers of slaves being driven quickly out, and hurried away to
the south. The slaver's drum beat, and a number of crimson flags were
seen advancing, until they halted and formed a line close to the
entrance of the village. I now saw natives rushing wildly to and fro in
all directions armed with spears and shields.
Some time elapsed before the cattle and baggage arrived. In the meantime
I waited, perched on a block of granite, with my telescope, watching
every movement. There was no doubt that our sudden appearance had caused
intense excitement. I saw men running from the trader's station to the
large village opposite, at the foot of the hill.
At length, I observed two men approaching.
We were not yet ready for a general advance, therefore, as the servants
and carriers, cattle, &c., fell into order, the band struck up some
Turkish airs, which sounded extremely wild and appropriate to the
savagely-beautiful scenery around us.
